RRC Archives

Personally, I'd feel pretty good about the whole thing if you give me ...

(set to the tune of "12 Days of Christmas")

12 Petzl quickdraws,
11 rides to the Red,
10 crags to climb at,
9 dogs to fall on,
8 pieces of pizza,
7 days of rest,
6 shower tokens,
FIVE... GOLDEN GRI-GRI'S!!!!!

4 foot of chain,
3 big cams,
2 boulder problems,
and a stolen laptop from Miguel's!!!

Ha ha nice song Rollo!

I was personally destroyed when you rap bolted that route Jason was going to rap bolt first. As penance you may insulate my cabin... and if you could bulldoze the top of that big hill blocking the sun that would be great too. It's cold in there!!

On another note, that crag has obviously been there for a long time and a lot of us have walked over there and looked at it in years past. But why is the access situation any less sensitive now that it has always been over there? Hate to throw out a can of worms, but I'm just curious about this aspect... I for one felt that for the good of the Lode access it would be better not to develop any more private property for the time being. But maybe there is something I don't know about the situation there.

Brilliant Rollo!!

So Dustonian.... because I bolted that route on rappel, it's not bad form for someone else to use my gear and bolt what I had intended to bolt, because of the fact that my rap bolting practices were in bad form to begin with? Is that the gist of your comment?

And this thread isn't about access, nor does that change the situation being discussed.

Nope, not the gist. I have no problem with rap-bolting obvious sport routes of good quality. Using your rope without asking was certainly bad form, but I don't feel like it's worth getting too worked up over or egregious enough an indiscretion for 6 pages of internet blather. If this were a climbing area with finite rock, or if it were a trad route that got bolted over, or if he had swiped a red-tagged FA, or chiseled an ugly hold, or if this was a truly undiscovered brand-new crag that no climber had laid eyes on before, it would be another story... but it's a cliff that's been known of for a while, with an old established route, of questionable access anyway, and in the end rap-bolted routes should more or less end up being about the same anyway regardless of who bolts it, given reasonable levels of competence. Now, the allegation that he bolted a "different" route versus what you had visualized is kind of strange in a way, and definitely muddies the waters a bit. Is the most natural, aesthetic line really that hard to spot that you guys would differ significantly on bolt placements? In other words, who was eyeing the more contrived route?

In any case, jugging your rope was definitely over the line and kinda rude, but not the end of the world really in my opinion. There's thousands of beautiful new routes in the Red waiting to be equipped and climbed, and it sounds like Mike has more or less atoned for his transgression... so, lesson learned?

More importantly, who put the "tag" at the base of the crag? That shit is too funny....

wow, I think I'll go climbing...

Dustin, you don't have the story straight.

SCIN wrote:Dustin, you don't have the story straight.

clearly.

and if there is so much potential, why did Mike not go somewhere else to discover it? my guess it was because the rope there gave him easy access, hence not having to do the real legwork.

mike, the apology to all developers was a nice gesture, so thanks from the developers. the bigger issue that you hit upon is that developers here are very aware about what the next crew is doing, and I say with confidence that the majority of the developers would have been cool with your help IF you had asked around beforehand. granted, no one developer owns the entire cliff, but ask if you can do some trail work, cut trees, scrub, leave your static line behind for months upon end to be ruined, etc....

chosen1, are you appeased or is there lingering frustration? (that sounds like a Dr. Ruth commercial)

@Dustonian
First of all, I don't see how, whether the crag is known about or not, has anything to do with what happpened. I would be just as shocked if i fixed a line at the darkside for future bolting and the same scenario occurred. But based on your rationale, because it's a widely known about crag, it would be cool. Maybe worth a page of internet blather but nothing more. Secondly, who gives a shit who was "eyeing the more contrived line"? I don't care if I was planning on bolting the most unaesthetic heap of shit in the Red in your eyes. The fact is, I did the work to establish anchors and a fixed rope before the next guy, so they're shit out of luck.
And if this topic is not worthy of the 6 pages it's become, why have you weighed in on it so much?

@Piggie
I'm fine with Mike. If he wants to help do some trail work, great. That seems like a good solution.. Hugh suggested that, and I'm not going to argue with the Boss. I get one day outside a week, and that's if the weather cooperates.
All I ever wanted to know was why he thought it was ok, and he never did answer that.

For what it's worth, I've seen Mike sweat it out at our PMRP trail days.