RRC Archives

Watched Peter Mortimer's First Ascent on Sunday night. Went to the Red Monday. Worked a possible FA. Went to Miguel's. Sat next to Sonnie Trotter. JR(that JR) was telling stories.

These things are all in order but I am not sure they are related.

jumping in late
went to the Lode Mon, bolt to bolt on Chainsaw (hey, made it to the chains), then flash on the fun crimpy 11a around the corner, Snapper - great fun; how's that for a reverse warmup?!

need lots more low 11's

pigsteak wrote:I'd like to add rjackson to the thread. he just bolted a beautiful addition to choco factory, and as soon as he rests up he'll be opening "one side makes you taller"....

so there's yer pressure rjackson....send that rig!

Sent.

First go this morning in the excellent chilly temps after a slab warm-up.

Special thanks to Pigsteak and Jeff.

So it's open, go get on it!

And hey Pigsteak, I want to hear about your runs today!

Nice work today Russ. First go, strong, and in control!

sa-weet rjackson. perfect addition to a nicely shaping up area.

well, I broke down and asked Ray to get on my proj for beta. He showed me two heel cams and a trusty knee bar, but danged if those bendy, strong punks make it look easy with that cheater beta. so instead I got stubborn and used my original beta, and still stunk up the joint. actually, I am happy with the results. Two moves higher from the dirt, and then I actually was able to do the high step up top (first time for that.) SO inreality, I am still not close, but the high point has me psyched.

It is fun to dream bout the lines during the week, and have every move rehearsed on your mind's eye.

I heard Brad Weaver did Dracula. Brad, wanna share?

Artsay flashed "Stalker" which was mighty fine if you have ever touched those crux holds.

So you're two moves closer to the chains Pigsteak! That's progress, especially on a day when you barely made it to the crag. It will go down.

And when the rest have all tired and gone home I'll still have business there if you need a catch. (Providing you haven't already sent, of course.)

my bad...Brad did Lucifer....

The temps were perfect yesterday. No excuse there. My project still felt hard as crap though. I was able to do the low boulder problem and string together a couple bolts up high. I have alot of work to do.

It's hard to watch the strong folks in the cave and on GMC wall with their t-shirts on while you freeze your tail off projecting their warm-ups.

Somebody told me once that we are all on the same train, we just got on a different stops. Guess that's true. I'll be glad when I can climb in the sun.

1pm on Sunday:
One person's perfect temps are another person's nightmare! I wore smartwool pants, 3 layers on top, a hat, a down jacket, hand warmers in the coat, hand warmers in the chalk bag, and a hand warmer taped in the inside of each wrist! Did the "walk around/deep knee bends" before getting on the project and did two warm up routes first.

Get to the 4 th bolt---hands are frozen solid and will not work at all. Oh yeah---and tried the "warm your hands on your neck between moves." That's not as easy on a steep 12a with sharp two finger pockets, but I tried.

2pm on Sunday
Second go--hands were not quite as frozen, got past the last bolt and two moves into the crux before pitching off. If I can just get one hold higher---it will go.
But I need at least 55 degrees for my next attempt!

The ultimate routes I am working towards this season are Rock Wars and Steelworker. I'm definitely getting psyched on trad climbing...