Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:03 am
faye-day?
Yes, had you been there for the FA... Christian led for the FA and I cleaned (ivy, dirt, choss and gear - then equipped).pawilkes wrote:so do i get on the FA for cleaning Through the Looking Glass, rj?
I have some old trad climber friends in the Northeast that adhere to that pretty closely. In the adirondacks a few motnhs ago one of them reiterated, "the ONLY thing that matters is onsight ground up ascents". He certainly doesn't always adhere to this, but you can tell he deliberately won't get on any routes that he think he might be able to onsight at a later date, and he has very little interest in getting on something after he's blown the onsight.L K Day wrote:Jim Erickson carried the notion of purity of style to the next level with his concept of what constituted a "tainted ascent". Jim's sense of style evolved to the point that he felt that if he fell on a climb, his efforts on that route were now tainted, he had failed, and he would not return to the route. If he was working a route, and he came to a move me couldn't do, the only way he could preserve the purity of his ascent was to down-climb the pitch, without falling, and return later when he was better prepared. A pretty damned tough standard when you're climbing at the highest level. A standard, by the way, which he did not always manage to maintain.