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Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:06 pm
by rhunt
"Most of today’s high-end trad ascents are really just sport ascents that incorporate removable gear into the performance."
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:08 pm
by gripster
interesting article. i am sure talk of "ground up" route climbing should inspire some more comments about how super-gay NC climbing ethics are.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:17 pm
by ahab
Alex Honnold wrote:No one climbs cutting-edge trad ground-up and onsight simply because, one, it’s a waste of time, versus dogging it and just getting it done. Two, you basically can’t onsight 5.14 trad since there are less than 15 of them in the world. The old-school definition of trad is dead. Or rather it has moved into the alpine and on to walls. The single-pitch stuff is basically sport climbing unless you make yourself do it ground up, and then that just begs the question, why bother?
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 3:34 pm
by pigsteak
see, even honnold knows trad climbing is an oxy moron...
clip the bolts, you chuffers.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:05 pm
by rustyvasectomy
How many traddies does it take to screw in a light bulb? Two...one to belay and the other to lead the step ladder slinging every step...
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:05 pm
by rhunt
I feel so vindicated. Now do you see that there is no trad climbing at the red. I will give you "gear" climbing but I kinda like sprad climbing better.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:10 pm
by ahab
pigsteak wrote:see, even honnold knows trad climbing is an oxy moron...
clip the bolts, you chuffers.
can't link it due to work place surf control, but go to youtube and search "honnold + belly full of bad berries"
you/i can call it whatever we like. plugging gear is fun.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:34 pm
by charlie
rhunt wrote:I feel so vindicated. Now do you see that there is no trad climbing at the red. ......
Breaking News Flash, everyone pay attention or you may suffer untold consequences........
The Red is a sport park.
That fact is almost as painfully obvious as the threads around here lately are lame. Are y'all even trying to be interesting anymore?
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:38 pm
by anticlmber
how many sport climbers does it take to cahnge a light bulb??
2,341. 1 to do it and 2,336 to tell them they did it wrong, cheated, used a bulb that was "off", and a few to yell "SICK BRAH!!"
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:52 pm
by rhunt
Charlie get it right, it's the Gorge.
