RRC Archives

The 2010 Kentucky Ice Climbing Expedition will meet at the Beer Trailer Sunday morning at 10:00. All are welcome!

I don't have any gear can I still come?

Clevis Hitch wrote:I don't have any gear can I still come?

Unfortunately ice climbing is much more expensive than rock climbing to get started. At a minimum you need boots and crampons ($400+) assuming you can share ice tools. Good tools are $250+ each. I remember spending a grand before my first day on the ice. I then spent another $1500 on screws, clothing, and half ropes, etc....

powen01 wrote:What were the rules on ice down at Muir? I seem to recall that someone was allowed to top rope once, and leading was completely banned. Maybe Rick or Liz can give us a heads up on their rules/conditions/etc with regard to ice in the valley?

A 90 foot 2-tier waterfall in the Rebel Camp Hollow (past the BruiseBrothers wall to the end of the hollow) was climbed by several ice climbers a couple years ago. We haven't looked back there lately, but there is a good chance the ice column has formed with this extended cold period. The guys who climbed this used a top rope due to the iffy condition of KY ice. You can set the top rope by walking around climbers right of the waterfall about 100 feet and hiking up the steep slope to the trees atop.

As with all climbing in Muir, you do so at your own risk with no guarantees to your safety. But we would strongly recommend using a top rope when climbing this column. The water continues to flow and makes for significant variations in the density of the ice.

Thanks Rick - I may take a gander at this waterfall tomorrow if our other options don't work out.

And sorry to hear about the death or your ice column Eric. I am guessing all of the 80 foot pillar was free standing? Too much weight for the rope...

Clevis Hitch wrote:I don't have any gear can I still come?

<a href="http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n117 ... 10027a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117 ... 10027a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

OK, ice climbing in Pikeville was a rousing success! Turned out the top pitch of our flow was about 90' by itself, and my 60m rope was barely enough. Found suitable enough trees for three solid anchors, and even though I long ago sold my climbing axes, turns out my alpine axes worked very well. My 55 cm axe wasn't too much different than my old ice tool, though my longer axe was a bit unwieldy and good for probing existing holds, but not very good at driving new ones. The ice was a perfect density for climbing, too, hard enough that is supported my points, but not so hard that it ever took more than one or two good front points to drive my crampons in.

Awesome day! Hoping to get out again before it gets into the 40's and 50's by next weekend!

crampons and ice axes are cheating anyway...

We want a trip report and pictures of the 2010 KY Ice Expedition!