RRC Archives

Gaar wrote:
For me its as simple as understanding that it is only climbing. If I accept the fact that there is nothing more then personal satisfaction attached with the climb, and no other relative importance, I usually progress pretty fast.
If you think about this shit to much youll never get anywhere but the 2nd bolt or im my case the first piece of gear.

That is the most insightful thing I have read on this bbs in a long time.

can we rename this post to subtle spray lords

...can't...delete...post...arg.

Gaar wrote:I work at a pzza place and eat there almost everynight, I dont train except for slacklining, and have at least 3-5 beers a night and have lived this way for about 2 years. when I left the Red I was climbing 3-4days a week, hard 12 sport, and mid 10 trad. I took 9 months off and moved to the florida keys. Returned and moved to Zion.. Last week I sent my hardest trad climb to date on the 2nd try .....13a, and still send 13a sport pretty reguallary here.

For me its as simple as understanding that it is only climbing. If I accept the fact that there is nothing more then personal satisfaction attached with the climb, and no other realitive importance, I usually progress pretty fast.
If you think about this shit to much youll never get anywhere but the 2nd bolt or im my case the first piece of gear.

The only thing this tells me is the grades are stiffer in the Red than out West.

Thats the damn truth Ray....Anything done in Saint G. is about a 2-3 letter grades off from the red...Anything here is Zion is just damn scary and hard.

(disclaimer: This coming from a guy who started climbing when he was seven, has never seriously trained and hasn't climbed within a number grade of his peak in almost a decade.)

It's easier to push yourself when you're having fun. If you want to climb harder routes, you will be falling off of them. It has helped me for getting back into shape to try looking forward to the failure. One of the most fun parts of climbing for me is getting wickedly pumped, but trying desparately to hold on anyway. If I fall under those conditions, I always hit the end of the rope with a smile on my face. Then you're more apt to give a route that evening burn when you're arms are already toast, and you might be more psyched to come back and try again. There's alot to be said for just climbing more and relaxing. It seems like that is the way that many of the strongest climbers have gotten there. I hear stories of people sending a pumpy route on their 7th or 8th try of the day. How do you get to the point where you're 7th try can be anything but pathetic? I guess by trying more and more when your pumped. From what some people have said you (Caribe) tend to climb tense. That's something that could definitely hold you back. Try going to the gym and swinging around, use momentum, lunge, dyno, heel hook above your head, try silly problems where you end up upside down and backwards. Climb fast. There is nothing more effective for avoiding a pump than climbing fast. Another thing I do that may or may not be helpful is no-hands boulder problems on slabs. Almost every time I'm in the gym I try a no-hands route.

There it is. A questionably useful jumble of advice.