RRC Archives

SCIN wrote:Clip one and gimme dirt.

Never mind good style, the paranoid engineer in my head really, really doesn't like lowering off non-redundant gear. (But somehow doesn't mind lowering off one QD when I bail and have to hand over the sharp end to a "good" climber....)

How's this: I was poking around youtube and watched the BigUp video of the rocktrip with wahtsistoes flashing Thanatopis - he clips both draws at the anchors. 5.14 flash and he's got the juice! (that, and what looks like a good clipping stance, but still!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpOtCc-wvDY

tomdarch wrote:

SCIN wrote:Clip one and gimme dirt.

Never mind good style, the paranoid engineer in my head really, really doesn't like lowering off non-redundant gear. (But somehow doesn't mind lowering off one QD when I bail and have to hand over the sharp end to a "good" climber....)

So having another bolt clipped 7 feet beneath the chains makes you nervous?

ray, it is as simple as tutu girl made it...when we fill in our spray card, have the box to check that adds 3 points for clipping both anchors. you know that will straighten up the troops. heck, even power2u, and chriss will fight for that honor.....

SCIN wrote:
So having another bolt clipped 7 feet beneath the chains makes you nervous?

7 FEET!!!!!?????

Shit. Thats way too far. 4 feet is my limit...

SCIN wrote: You have to show control to prove that you've tamed the beast.

I totally agree with this school of thought (and refuse points to prove it). However, to say that clipping both draws is required for the RP is a bit nitpicky for this reason: The first draw is like any other on the route- reach up and snap it in- Done. The second is often quite a pain in the ass and can sometimes require a bit more time to fiddle with its opposition and all. That said, I usually try to get em' both but if you're truly at your limit it is a non-issue. It's bad enough popping while staring at the chains - "Dude, I totally blew my onsite because I was too juiced to clip the second anchor draw." What is Pig's take (ha ha) on skipping bolts on the route if a RP takes two on the anchors? Is it allowed? Does it belong in the realm of Euro shenanigans?

Fact is, it isn't really a route unless there is a jug to clip from. Everybody knows that no ending jug = incomplete route.

Therefore, you should never be so juiced that you couldn't clip both if you wanted, so I feel that clipping one is the correct answer.

If it doesn't end on a jug, the bolter stopped prematurely.

Jug, topout, or it ain't a route.

Defining a jug...I love to know what Chris Sharma considers a jug...the reality is that the higher the level of the climb the smaller the definition of a jug. I know I saw those beautiful chains in Skin Boat several times and wanted to grab them but still took the fall, and it is a long fall...it was worth the work of getting them clipped.

Routes end on jugs or no hand stances. Not big crimps, not decent slopers. A jug is a jug is a jug... no matter the climber.

Otherwise, it just isn't a complete route.

Mercy should have 7 sets of anchors. Then we can call it 7 different routes and get all the points...

If you want all your hard climbs finishing in a jug, stay indoors and get your points You can put what ever you want at the top...there will be many routes outdoors you will be missing...