RRC Archives

Back on topic. A set of nuts and a set of cams is IDEAL in most environments. I can't agree more with Larry's comments above. For me, I have found I like all cams in the red. I know it is heavier but I don't mind. I view it as sandbags that I can take off when I really want to push my personal limit. My nuts are in the pack just in case though.

rhunt wrote:tricams were a new fangled thingy when I was doing gear routes back when most of you were in elementary school. I remember they were like hex's in that you needed two hands to place them well. Is that still the case or is there some new beta on how to place them? Seems to me that if you intend to climb gear routes at a grade that requires you to keep at least one hand on the rock then you are going to have to use pro that can be easily placed with one hand....cams

I'm not sure why most people don't do this. but all you have to do is reinforce the 'stem' of a tri-cam with some tape. Duct tape, electrical tape, or probably various other similar tapes, and you suddenly have a semi-rigid stem that you can easily use to slot tri-cams fairly deep with only one hand. You can also tape popsicle sticks on there for more rigidity, but I never did that for fear that the breaking stick could somehow cut the webbing (probably just paranoia).

a set of the smallest 3 tri-cams taped in such a way, with maybe 3-4 of each size, will safely get you up just about any 5.8 or less route in the gunks.

Shamis

8) my money is going down on Trad Mike. $ 10.00 says he does Andromeda Strain in better time.
Yo, bcombs you got 'da stopwatch? C'mon Mike , cinch up, don't let 'em psych ya out !

After reviewing the resumes, I bet $20 on 512OW.

after hearing these two apes beat their hairy chests, my money is on woman.

Yep, I've got the watch...

Actually, I'm betting Pigsteak can bolt the route up and send it faster than either of our contestants can do it on gear. Actually, maybe one of these guys will let me follow them for a day so I can learn to place gear. Don't get me wrong, I've climbed some trad, but I bet if I would have fallen on any of the routes there would be a "Gumby dies because of crappy placements..." thread on here somewhere.

TradMike wrote:I'll be in Idaho most of August but will be back to the red sometime after that. Same number of placements would have to be the rule. We don't have to waist our time doing some silly race though. Something is telling me, this can't be good. I'm more of the slow and steady type to begin with. I think my brother and his wife used to climb with you a little back in the early 90s. Scott and Renee, do you remember them?

Yeah, I remember Scott and Renee. They climbed with SCIN and I quite a bit back then...

Same number of placements??? You didn't say a thing about safety.... just faster and easier. I'm only placin one piece on Andromeda Strain. 3 on the Inhibitor.

So if the "set" number is 1 or less, I'm in.

OR...

We can do as many as you like, as long as laybacking is called off.

We don't need no stinken racks.

Shamis wrote:

rhunt wrote:tricams were a new fangled thingy when I was doing gear routes back when most of you were in elementary school. I remember they were like hex's in that you needed two hands to place them well. Is that still the case or is there some new beta on how to place them? Seems to me that if you intend to climb gear routes at a grade that requires you to keep at least one hand on the rock then you are going to have to use pro that can be easily placed with one hand....cams

I'm not sure why most people don't do this. but all you have to do is reinforce the 'stem' of a tri-cam with some tape. Duct tape, electrical tape, or probably various other similar tapes, and you suddenly have a semi-rigid stem that you can easily use to slot tri-cams fairly deep with only one hand. You can also tape popsicle sticks on there for more rigidity, but I never did that for fear that the breaking stick could somehow cut the webbing (probably just paranoia).

a set of the smallest 3 tri-cams taped in such a way, with maybe 3-4 of each size, will safely get you up just about any 5.8 or less route in the gunks.

Shamis

Are you really trying to transform your freakin pink tri cam into a yellow alien with duct tape and popsicle sticks?

JR wrote:Are you really trying to transform your freakin pink tri cam into a yellow alien with duct tape and popsicle sticks?

It works. Try it. Being able to slot deep tri cams with 1 hand makes them really good, BY FAR the most bang for your buck.