THANKS and Perma Draw Poll

Post by **Tunica Intima** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 8:59 pm

If all my ascents are pinkpoints, I don't care anyway they were fun!

Post by **ynot** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:00 pm

I see the allure of numbers, but steep sport sure opens a big can of worms. By the time you all buy 30 draws ,replace lots of bolts and anchors every 4 or 5 years, you coulda bought a rack. After watching Allah cranking one of those 13's at purgatory,I'm amazed at what a body can do on steep rock and how long those routes are. keep up the good work replacing that stuff or donating to those that do.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:23 pm

replacing bolts is way more worthy than buying a rack.

greg, I place chain anchors on all my lines. I also install chain where needed mid route (like goodguy does)....btw, are we assuming this chain is stainless? that stuff can get pricey.

sorry man, but the corollary stands. have sharma give me a call, but I am betting he could care less that he didn't redpoint.

Post by **RRO** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:41 pm

sport climbing has way too many rules. im with ynot. im sticking with trad.

and pigsfeet, i have saw your routes. most have had draws hanging and a lot still do have draws hanging. does that mean you should have not gotten fa credit ? i just want to make sure i understand the mighty pigsnut corollary before i go rename all of them in the guide and give the first hanging the draws credit on the fa . also ,if only certain mid-points of a route have chain what type of point would that be? lavendar point ???? 8)

everyone does a lot around the red. it seems like more and more people are picking up where others left off or no one ever was. if your out working on replacing old bolts or webbing or whatever let me know if i can help with equipment or back labor. this winter i will be free a bunch.

Post by **Tunica Intima** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:55 pm

Piggy, we could take all the draws down at the lode and anywhere else, thus helping everyones ethic and forcing the redpoint. I'm sure everbody would be so appreciative that this was done so as not to blow their onsight attempt. Think of all the work it would be to have someone else take down the draws and then try an official onsight or flash. One could not take them down themselves you see, because then it wouldn't be an onsight or flash. And to hang your own draws over someone elses draws is just rude and also is not a redpoint. I think that would be a yellowpoint. And if you send during a full moon; well thats a mauvepoint; because the moons gravitational pull takes a pound or two off. Whew all these rules make me tired. Maybe if we just leave draws up everywhere we can rename our sacred place the Pink River Gorge.

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:31 pm

one thing about using albeit inferior gear (webbing vs chain/cable). Like Tunica said, the chain is much hardier. I would wager that folks would stop scrutinizing it. Now, having ever fading webbing/draws up there would get attention of the person who would be climbing on them. He might think that there is a threshold which he would not climb on the existing gear and change it out.
My point is, having gear that has a planned obsolescence creates a naturally occuring mechanism ( that is, a healthy trepidation of climbing on suspect gear that we all cultivate to maximze longevity in this sport) to scrutinze the route every so often.
Just a thought.

Post by **RRO** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:39 am

just chop the bolts and all will be good, really its the only logical thing to do......