Page 8 of 10
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 8:15 pm
by Sunshine
I think we should build climbing malls. We could have one in every city of sufficient size. Brand name crags full of brand name routes. No matter where you go it would be all the same. Ratings or dollars. What's the difference. How hard is it and how much did you pay?
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 10:36 pm
by Alan Evil
I pegged Smedley for a troll on his/her/its second post. Any comments in the guide should be deleted and posts to here ignored. And if someone says, "He's the nicest person when you meet him," I say bullshit. Intentionally attacking everyone and everything just because you're anonymous makes you a snivelling (sp?) little shit all the time IMO.
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 11:35 pm
by Day
Kneebar, what trad route was that?
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 1:40 am
by ynot
Sounds like Muscle Beach or the Dome.
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 3:55 am
by J-Rock
Meadows wrote:BTW, I do recall JRock downrating climbs elsewhere in the Red.
Yeah, I have downrated other climbs in the Red, but I didn't call the developers a bunch of candy asses when I did it, nor did I tell them they should go climb at New River, nor did I suggest that they go climb some other 5.11's.
We do appreciate criticism and we adjust the grades up and down accordingly.
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 3:58 am
by J-Rock
Meadows wrote:And then there are those who consisently send at a level and just know ...
And then there are those who consistently onsight at a level on many different rock types in many different areas and in many different conditions... granite, limestone, sandstone, sport, trad, mixed, multipitch, slab, vertical, overhanging... etc. etc. and just know...
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 4:48 am
by Danny
Grades aren't important to me and most of us weaklings per se, but they sure give us a lot of material to argue about, which is where their importance lies.
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 11:43 am
by KD
maybe we should do like i do with my students - grade on a curve
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 12:27 pm
by kneebar
Day wrote:Kneebar, what trad route was that?
Double Cross 5.7+ in J-Tree, it was my first lead there on one of my first road trips. I had been leading mid 10's at the New and easy 10's at the Gunks so I thought a 5.7 would be a nice warm up. Scaried the shit out of me! You can ask anyone I know, I don't remember shit as far as route names, ratings, areas, sometimes my home address, but I remember that climb!
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 1:05 pm
by J-Rock
I remember seeing that one the first time I was out there and thinking that it looked hard for a 5.7. We ended up climbing a few easier routes around the corner from it and they felt pretty hard for the grade. Joshua Tree definitely has some old school ratings... and some old school bolting ethics as well...