Page 8 of 10
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 2:48 am
by J-Rock
Just an observation... What amazes me about these kids learning to climb in the gym is how fast they learn and improve. It seems like quite a few of them can climb solid 5.12 within their first year, but take some of them outside and put them on a crack (or a reachy route) and they will be temporarily confused. Then I tell them, "Yeah, now that's REAL rock climbing!" They can't get enough of it... most of them are very capable of skipping the entry level grades and going straight to the harder stuff, but many of them still believe they are in the gym and that the outdoors should be clean and tamed instead of dirty and wild.
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 3:20 am
by marathonmedic
Let's not forget that there really aren't many places for a n00b to climb outdoors at the Red unless they're doing trad. There are only 33 sport routes listed under 5.9 and 7 of them are in closed crags. Until you learn to climb, or at least claw, your way up a 10 or higher there really isn't that much out there to get on, especially when groups of n00bs can fill those climbs for an entire day 10 min after they get there.
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 3:25 am
by J-Rock
Well, we are constantly searching for more sport routes under 5.9.... hopefully we will keep finding them and noobs will have a safe place to learn the ropes on real rock. I've discovered that it 's MUCH harder to find a sub 5.9 sport route at the Red than it is to find a 5.12+ and over. But, we are still looking...
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 5:32 am
by marathonmedic
Yeah, erosion has a way of making a 5.6 into a 5.13 after a while. It's tough to grab those easy ones before they melt away.
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 2:35 pm
by Christian
I admit it. I am not a rock climber. I won't live long enough to climb 5.12.
As my 15 year old son likes to remind me: "Dad. Your climbing knowledge far exceeds yor climbing ability or experience."
"thank you son."
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:24 pm
by pigsteak
christian..how old are you? climbing 5.12 is not that hard, if a person is in good shape, AND really wants it. I am closing in on 40, and would never dream of using my age to keep me down.
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:27 pm
by Wes
Sunshine and Snake are older then 50, and both climb 5.12 all the time.
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 5:00 pm
by pigsteak
more inspiration for those of us who see it coming!!!! nice job guys...way to crank.
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 5:07 pm
by squeezindlemmon
Add tbone to that list, so ya see... it's VERY possible!
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 5:09 pm
by diggum
Plus...ya know...they look good doin it & THAT is what really matters.