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Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:42 pm
by Andrew
Bolt the world
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:43 pm
by caribe
Andrew wrote:Let me summarize. "my name is Caribe and I am a giant DICK.
Yes, a giant DICK, perhaps you would be more comfortable with the whole thing if you change your position slightly.
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:44 pm
by climb2core
dustonian wrote:Your "thoughts" are a bit off-base: Simply climbing the line with traditional pro does respect the FA, it is not like they chopped the bolts (although this would certainly have happened at many other places). By contrast, bolting a traditional route entail drilling the rock and installing permanent hardware, which irrevocably alters the climb. The two scenarios are very different.
I clipped several bolts on EGBG from perfectly protectable hand jams and finger locks. Not a big deal to me, but I would estimate it is the neighborhood of 50% naturally protectable. This is around my personal threshhold for deciding if a route is going to be sport or traditional/mixed.
Safely protected traditional routes are relatively few and far between relative to good 75%+ unprotectable faces in the Red. Trad routes are something of a precious commodity at our local crags and as such as they should be preserved and protected. By contrast there is no shortage of good sport climbing in the RRG, so why the need to bolt the few well-protected trad lines that do exist?
Sport Routes in the Red with 3-5 user stars: 700
Trad Routes in the Red with 3-5 user stars: 350
Curious what the sport climber to trad climber ratio is for the Red, but I would be guessing it would be at least 10 to 1 for those who only choose 1 of the disciplines. I really don't have a dog in this fight. I think it is fine that both lines exist, I am just not a fan of some people's sense of entitlement.
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:47 pm
by caribe
Porksteak has me worried. I am starting to take his exposition somewhat seriously.
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:49 pm
by caribe
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Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:50 pm
by dustonian
climb2core wrote:Curious what the sport climber to trad climber ratio is for the Red
I think you mean "sport climber to rock climber ratio." Any trad climber who didn't want to clip bolts back in 1992 has pretty much quit climbing altogether by now.
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:51 pm
by Andrew
caribe wrote:Andrew wrote:Let me summarize. "my name is Caribe and I am a giant DICK.
Yes, a giant DICK, perhaps you would be more comfortable with the whole thing if you change your position slightly.
I don't think a slight change in position will make it any more comfortable.
On that note. Lets be friends
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:51 pm
by dustonian
Maybe you guys just need some lube.
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:55 pm
by caribe
dustonian wrote:pigsteak wrote:dustin, that there is the best argument I have ever heard for preserving the cracks....and one with which I agree.
BTW, it seems you've been doing quite a bit of trad climbing yourself anyway lately, no??
Holy shit don't make the little pig cry.
Re: Who's line is it?
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 5:58 pm
by caribe
Andrew wrote:caribe wrote:Andrew wrote:Let me summarize. "my name is Caribe and I am a giant DICK.
Yes, a giant DICK, perhaps you would be more comfortable with the whole thing if you change your position slightly.
I don't think a slight change in position will make it any more comfortable.
On that note. Lets be friends
Makeup sex. Is your dad available . . . ?