Pull ups

[tutugirl]

I have done up to 10 in a row with 15 seconds in between...it teaches you a couple of things, what is your true pump...so if you are ever wondering if you are pump enough to clip...well you no longer need to wonder, it also makes you go to a happy place, a place you can forget how pump you are getting, I use that place on my rest to make sure I truly rest, and the last but very important it teaches you body how to use and handle high levels of lactic acid. Hint, if you do 25 push-ups right after your first five you will de-pump faster. Here is a bit of info on lactic acid. I don't have a lot of upper body power, I can hardly do a V-2 boulder problem but this is a place where I can excel.

Here are ten things you should know about lactic acid.

1. Lactic acid is formed from the breakdown of glucose.

During this process the cells make ATP (adenosine triphosphate), which provides energy for most of the chemical reactions in the body. Lactic acid formation doesn't use oxygen, so the process is often called anaerobic metabolism. Lactate-related ATP production is small but very fast. This makes it ideal for satisfying energy needs anytime exercise intensity exceeds 50% of maximum capacity.

2. Lactic acid doesn't cause muscle soreness and cramps.

Delayed onset muscle soreness, the achy sensation in your muscles the day after a tough workout, is caused by muscle damage and post-exercise tissue inflammation. Most muscle cramps are caused by muscle nervous receptors that become overexcitable with muscle fatigue.

Many athletes use massage, hot baths, and relaxation techniques to help them rid their muscles of lactic acid and thus relieve muscle soreness and cramping. While these techniques probably have other benefits, getting rid of lactic acid isn't one of them. Lactate is used rapidly for fuel during exercise and recovery and doesn't remain in the muscles like motor oil.

3. The body produces lactic acid whenever it breaks down carbohydrates for energy.

The faster you break down glucose and glycogen the greater the formation of lactic acid. At rest and submaximal exercise, the body relies mainly on fats for fuel. However, when you reach 50% of maximum capacity, the threshold intensity for most recreational exercise programs, the body "crosses over" and used increasingly more carbohydrates to fuel exercise. The more you use carbohydrates as fuel, the more lactic acid you produce.

4. Lactic acid can be formed in muscles that are receiving enough oxygen.

As you increase the intensity of exercise, you rely more and more on fast-twitch muscle fibers. These fibers use mainly carbohydrates to fuel their contractions. As discussed, whenever you break down carbohydrates for energy, your muscles produce lactic acid. The faster you go, the more fast-twitch muscles you use. Consequently, you use more carbohydrates as fuel and produce more lactic acid. Increased blood lactic acid means only that the rate of entry of lactic acid into the blood exceeds the removal rate. Oxygen has little to do with it.

5. Many tissues, particularly skeletal muscles, continuously produce and use lactic acid.

Blood levels of lactic acid reflect the balance between lactic acid production and use. An increase in lactic acid concentration does not necessarily mean that the lactic acid production rate was increased. Lactic acid may increase because of a decreased rate of removal from blood or tissues.

Lactic acid production is proportional to the amount of carbohydrates broken down for energy in the tissues. Whenever you use carbohydrates, a significant portion is converted to lactate. This lactate is then used in the same tissues as fuel, or it is transported to other tissues via the blood stream and used for energy. Rapid use of carbohydrate for fuel, such as during intense exercise, accelerates lactic acid produciton. Temporarily, lactic acid builds up in your muscles and blood because it can't be used as fuel fast enough. However, if you slow down the pace of exercise or stop exercising, the rate of lactate used for energy soon catches up with the rate of lactate production.

Dr. George Brooks, a Professor from the Department of Integrative Biology at University of California at Berkeley, described the dynamic production and use of lactic acid in metabolism in his "Lactate Shuttle Theory." This theory describes the central role of lactic acid in carbohydrate metabolism and it's importance as a fuel for metabolism.

6. The body uses lactic acid as a biochemical "middleman" for metabolizing carbohydrates.

Carbohydrates in the diet are digested and enter the circulation form the intestines to the liver mainly in the form of glucose (blood sugar). However, instead of entering the liver as glucose and being converted directly to glycogen, most glucose from dietary carbohydrate bypasses the liver, enters the general circulation and reaches your muscles and converts into lactic acid. Lactic acid then goes back into the blood and travels back to the liver where it is used as building blocks for making liver glycogen. Your body produces much of its liver glycogen indirectly from lactic acid rather than directly from blood glucose.

Scientists call the process of making liver glycogen from lactic acid the "Glucose Paradox". The theory was formulated by famous biochemist Dr. J.D. McGarry and his associates. It shows the importance of lactic acid in carbohydrate metabolism.

7. During endurance races, such as marathons and triathlons, blood lactic acid levels stabilize even though lactic acid production increases.

This occurs because your capacity to produce lactic acid is matched by your ability to use it as fuel. Early during a race, there is a tremendous increase in the rates that muscle uptake and use glucose and breakdown glycogen. The increased rate of carbohydrate metabolism steps up production of muscle lactic acid, which also causes an increase in blood lactic acid.

As your body directs blood to your working muscles, you can shuttle the lactate to other tissues and use it as fuel. This reduces lactic acid levels in your muscles and blood, even though you continue to produce great quantities of lactic acid. However, you often feel better during the race or training. This relief is sometimes called "second wind".

Scientists use radioactive tracers to follow the use pattern of fuels in your blood and muscles. Their studies show that during exercise, lactic acid production and removal continue at 300-500 percent of resting rates, even though oxygen consumption has stabilized at submaximal levels.

8. The heart, slow-twitch muscle fibers, and breathing muscles prefer lactate as a fuel during exercise.

In the heart, for example, the uptake of lactate increases many fold as the intensity of exercise increases while uptake of glucose remains unchanged. These tissues suck up lactate at a fast rate to satisfy their energy needs.

9. Lactic acid is a very fast fuel that can be used to athletes' advantage during exercise.

The concentration of both glucose and lactic acid rise in the blood after a carbohydrate-rich meal, but the blood lactic acid concentration does not rise much because it is removed so rapidly. The body converts glucose, a substance removed from the blood only sluggishly, to lactate, a substance removed and used rapidly. Using lactic acid as a carbohydrate "middleman" helps you get rid of carbohydrates from your diet, without increasing insulin or stimulating fat synthesis. During exercise, you won't want an increase in insulin because it decreases the availability of carbohydrates that are vital to high performance metabolism.

Why is lactic acid so important in metabolic regulation? The exact answer is unknown, but there do appear to be several physiological reasons. Lactic acid- in contrast to glucose and other fuels- is smaller and better exchanged between tissues. It moves across cell membranes by a rapid process called facilitated transport. Other fuels need slower carrier systems such as insulin. Also, lactate is made rapidly in large quantities in muscle and released into general circulation. Muscle cells with large glycogen reserves cannot release significant amounts of this potential energy source as glucose because muscle lacks a key enzyme required to produce free glucose that can be released to the blood.

Including lactate as part of a fluid replacement beverage provides a rapid fuel that can help provide energy during intense exercise. The rationale for including lactate in athletic drinks is simple- since the body breaks down so much of dietary carbohydrates to lactate anyway, why not start with lactate in the first place? Lactate in the drink can be used rapidly by most tissues in the body and serves as readily available building blocks for restoring liver glycogen during recovery.

10. Proper training programs can speed lactic acid removal from your muscles.

This can be achieved by combining high intensity, interval, and over-distance training. Athletes and coaches must learn to deal effectively with lactic acid. Fortunately, most training programs incorporate elements necessary to speed lactate removal. Training programs should build your capacity to remove lactic acid during competition.

Lactic acid formation and removal rates increase as you run, bike or swim faster. To improve your capacity to use lactate as a fuel during exercise, you must increase the lactic acid load very high during training. Training with a lot of lactic acid in your system stimulates your body to produce enzymes that speed the use of lactic acid as a fuel.

High intensity interval training will cause cardiovascular adaptations that increase oxygen delivery to your muscles and tissues. Consequently, you have less need to breakdown carbohydrate to lactic acid. Also, better circulation helps speed the transport of lactic acid to tissues that can remove it from the blood.

Over distance training causes muscular adaptations that speed the rate of lactate removal. Over distance training in running, swimming, or cycling increases muscle blood supply and the mitochondrial capacity. Mitochondria are structures within the cells that process fuels, consume oxygen, and produce large amounts of ATP. A larger muscle mitochondrial capacity increases the use of fatty acids as fuel, which decreases lactate formation and speeds its removal.

[pigsteak]

is this margarita or redpoint?

[whatahutch]

Over distance training causes muscular adaptations that speed the rate of lactate removal. Over distance training in running, swimming, or cycling increases muscle blood supply and the mitochondrial capacity. Mitochondria are structures within the cells that process fuels, consume oxygen, and produce large amounts of ATP. A larger muscle mitochondrial capacity increases the use of fatty acids as fuel, which decreases lactate formation and speeds its removal.

For those that have treadwalls this can easily be achieved. Just stay on the thing and run easy laps (compared to hard moves) on it for twenty minutes. Take a five minute break and then another twenty minutes of easy climbing. Another break and then the last twenty minutes.

[whatahutch]

is this margarita or redpoint?

I just checked out his project site.He is getting stronger, and I think he could actually send Twinkie in this year.

[the lurkist]

Ohhh...

[tutugirl]

shoot I know the Margarita thing is a joke but I didn't get it....

[dustonian]

3. The body produces lactic acid whenever it breaks down carbohydrates for energy.

The faster you break down glucose and glycogen the greater the formation of lactic acid. At rest and submaximal exercise, the body relies mainly on fats for fuel. However, when you reach 50% of maximum capacity, the threshold intensity for most recreational exercise programs, the body "crosses over" and used increasingly more carbohydrates to fuel exercise. The more you use carbohydrates as fuel, the more lactic acid you produce.

4. Lactic acid can be formed in muscles that are receiving enough oxygen.

As you increase the intensity of exercise, you rely more and more on fast-twitch muscle fibers. These fibers use mainly carbohydrates to fuel their contractions. As discussed, whenever you break down carbohydrates for energy, your muscles produce lactic acid. The faster you go, the more fast-twitch muscles you use. Consequently, you use more carbohydrates as fuel and produce more lactic acid. Increased blood lactic acid means only that the rate of entry of lactic acid into the blood exceeds the removal rate. Oxygen has little to do with it.

5. Many tissues, particularly skeletal muscles, continuously produce and use lactic acid.

Blood levels of lactic acid reflect the balance between lactic acid production and use. An increase in lactic acid concentration does not necessarily mean that the lactic acid production rate was increased. Lactic acid may increase because of a decreased rate of removal from blood or tissues.

Lactic acid production is proportional to the amount of carbohydrates broken down for energy in the tissues. Whenever you use carbohydrates, a significant portion is converted to lactate. This lactate is then used in the same tissues as fuel, or it is transported to other tissues via the blood stream and used for energy. Rapid use of carbohydrate for fuel, such as during intense exercise, accelerates lactic acid produciton. Temporarily, lactic acid builds up in your muscles and blood because it can't be used as fuel fast enough. However, if you slow down the pace of exercise or stop exercising, the rate of lactate used for energy soon catches up with the rate of lactate production.

A few points worth clarifying here. These are not mysterious biochemical pathways and have been well understood for quite a while. First, lactic acid is not really used as "fuel" for the body--at least not directly. It is all exquisitely location- and condition-dependent. In the muscle, it is a metabolic waste product generated by the anaerobic metabolism of glucose, i.e. when oxygen demand is greater than supply. The reason the body goes ahead and reduces pyruvate (the end product of glycolysis) into lactic acid is to regenerate oxidized NAD+ from NADH, which is criticial to continuing the glycolysis reaction and generating the fuel that cells really need to keep working: ATP. The lactate is then shuttled to the liver where it can be used to regenerate glucose for both brain and muscle by the Cori cycle--but importantly at the net COST of -4 ATP, if anaerobic conditions continue in the muscle. Thus, the net effect of this "lactate shuttling" is a loss of 4 ATP (that's +2 ATP from anaerobic glycolysis in the skeletal muscle, -6 for gluconeogenesis in the liver), and in effect a shifting of metabolic burden from skeletal muscle to the liver during times of stressful exercise (again, when consumption of oxygen overruns supply).

Obviously this is not sustainable. Yes, glycolysis alone and pyruvate reduction is quick and great for fast-twitch muscle--but it is horribly inefficient, and you can't keep it up for long--say a hard boulder problem, or a 400-meter dash (in running it is around 800m, or roughly the 2:00 mark, is when the aerobic-anaerobic tradeoff becomes roughly 50-50--it is reasonable to presume the same for climbing in a well-trained athlete). The body vastly prefers to metabolize sugars in the presence of oxygen versus absence--once you get past that 2:00 barrier, you will be suffering big-time if you are regenerating lactic acid with pyruvate and skipping the Krebs cycle and electron-transport part of metabolism. In fact, the muscle will just flat-out stop working and your blood pH will through the floor--you're finished from a functional standpoint for the next few minutes (imagine me climbing on the Undertow wall)... But if you stop exercising and resume breathing enough again, your oxygen supply returns and the body shifts to the far more energetically favorable pathways of glycolysis AND aerobic metabolism (with a total yield of 34-36 ATP/glucose vs. glycolysis' measly 2 ATP/glucose--actually -4 ATP if you include the glucose regeneration part in the liver). All that lactic acid is converted to glucose in the liver and then into glycogen--but importantly, ONLY because you are now generating enough ATP via aerobic respiration to make this possible. Fortunately most routes I get on in the Red have rests good enough to allow this, because I sure as hell feel like I'm bouldering between bolts on "harder" routes here! Yes, "harder" is a completely subjective term... 13b for you, mid-12 or so for me

So it is has everything to do with oxygen, and especially oxygen consumption rate (here is where training comes in, not to mention efficient breathing rate and rhythm). What you are saying is relatively accurate for hard power bouldering and shorter power-endurance routes. But beyond that--no way! It's the difference between climbing a 5.10 completely efficiently and within your aerobic capacity and getting pumped out of your mind on a 5.13 because you feel like you're bouldering all the way up, or like days when you climb well vs. days when you're climbing poorly--in short, oxygen supply is just not keeping up with the forearm muscles' demand! This is why I like routes with nice no-hands rests and good places to just sit back and breathe...

[512OW]

Dustonian, agreed. Completely. But the article that tutugirl copy/pasted was written by Thomas Fahey (I think thats the name) in the early 80's. Some of the added references (by Mike Boone) were from the mid 90's. None of the info is the latest, up to date thought... save those that stood the test of time.

It's a pretty common article. I've seen it probably 4000 times in the last year.

[dustonian]

Obviously, it's still an area of contention. But obviously this George Brooks fella from Berkeley thinks he is on to something big... not a lot of other research in the area unfortunately. I have yet to find a description of the actual chemical reaction by which ATP is supposedly produced from lactic acid in the mitochondria... if anyone finds this it would be most interesting. Another location of the Cori cycle, previously believed to be exclusively hepatic? I'll keep looking, now you've got me interested, Marg.

Anyway here's a pretty interesting article on tumors that apparently co-opt a similar pathway (MCT1 transporters) as the one proposed by Dr. Brooks in muscle:

http://www.dukehealth.org/health_librar ... uel_tumors

[mike_a_lafontaine]

Lactic acid conversion back to pyruvate results in the reduction of NAD+ into NADH which can be used by the mitochondrial ETC to generate ATP. Not directly, but certainly lactate could be an indirect ATP producer, though lactate dehydrogenase is a cytosolic enzyme, so the conversion isn't occuring in the mitochondria. Though this is unlikely to be a major source of NADH simply because if we would be under suitable aerobic metabolism, Glucose wouldn't be converted to lactate anyway, the pyruvate from glycolysis would be sent directly to the mitochondria and converted to acetyl CoA for further oxidative metabolism.

As a point of technicallity, the "Cori cycle" doesn't happen in the liver, gluconeogenesis (the conversion of lactate into glucose) occurs in the liver. The Cori cycle is simply the name given to cycling of glucose b/w liver and muscles. (Glucose --> Lactate in the muscles, Lactate to liver through bloodstream, Lactate --> glucose in the liver, glucose to muscles through bloodstream, glucose to lactate in muscles...rinse, repeat).