That's precisely what I was inferring.bentley wrote: its much easier to replace anchors than carry someone out of a crag on a stretcher. Please stop repelling off sport routes. There are too many things to mess up when repelling..
That's fine...up to a point....louisville_climber wrote: I learned to clean and rappel down when I first started climbing, and it's really just the best option, period.
broken carabiner?Silk wrote:...like the curious broken carabiner...
http://www.dailyutahchronicle.com/mobil ... -1.2343089
Rocktoberfest folks:climb2core wrote: I also like the idea of carrying a few extra quick-links or biners to donate to a route and will start making it a standard practice to do so.
Weighting the rope as you go UP is pretty rare, therefore top-roping itself hardly affects the gear. And the only difference between lowering on top-rope and lowering to clean is, well, there is none. The rope is weighted in both cases, so I conclude that top-roping (going up), is not as harmful as lowering (when top-roping or leading).rhunt wrote:Last time I top roped, I weighted the rope, in fact every time I top rope I weight the rope...pretty much the only way back down.
I think this comment is quite enlightening. Of course "everyone should keep a knot in the end of your rope when belaying"! I think one of the stupidest accidents of all is when the belayer performs what fly fishermen would call a "long distance release". That is they "release" the leader as the end of the rope zips through their belay device. That particular accident would be hilarious if it wasn't so pathetic.pawilkes wrote:i've been really surprised at the number of and specific people who say to lower and to not rappel. maybe all these strong climbers never get on a route that is vertical enough to reasonably clean on rappel. rappelling is a basic skill, every climber who can belay should know how to do it. doing it safely isn't any harder than belaying. knowing how to rappel will only I personally don't rappel that much because most of the time i'm climbing on steep sport routes. I rarely tie knots because i can see the rope is down. all these "tie knots in the end of your ropes or your an idiot" comments are good intentioned but by this logic everyone should keep a knot in the end of your rope when belaying which i guess almost no one does around here.
That's why many of us who advocate rapping have taken the time to add the little nuance of OBVIOUSLY if the route is super steep you lower. Does it really need to be said every time somebody advocates rapping? Yes, I think lowering and tramming to clean draws on a typical (slightly overhung) RRG climb is more convenient. If you are seconding and cleaning the anchor however, why aren't you rapping? Convenience? Lack of the bare bones requisite skills of the sport? Laziness?Silk wrote:That's fine...up to a point....louisville_climber wrote: I learned to clean and rappel down when I first started climbing, and it's really just the best option, period.
actually, technically....a degree
Mebbe I'm being obtuse. Really steep routes are pretty hard to clean en rap...
I sent you a PM to give you the chance to clear this mis-statement up. I even gave you a few days to edit your post. You seem content to leave the misinformation intact. Now I am making a public request that you go back and change your post and remove all references of me (Joe) and you can even substitute the correct persons name. Kevin Cox is his name. You can call him Major or you can call him Mr. Cox, but don't call him Kentucky Joe.colorado_jen wrote:As being one of the first on the scene I will give my account of the day. I was in the party climbing next to the involved party.
The climber cleaned the anchors then prepared to rap off, collected 2 draws on his way down and then had not pulled sufficient rope through the anchors to get both ends of the rope on the ground. He ran out of rope at about 50 feet off the deck.
My friends took control of the scene, getting others around stabilizing the climber who was feet down on the hillside to keep from sliding down further and keep his spine in line and keep him from moving. Later found out that he had a fractured sacrum and C7 vertebrae.
I drove up to top of Bald Rock Rd and 498 and helped lead the ambulance and others down to the parking area.
This guy we later found out is called KY Joe or Clevis Hitch identified himself as an ER Nurse then refused to take over the scene from my friend who was an EMT many years ago. I thought he would be kind enough, being more qualified. He did however go prep his truck to use to bring rescue gear up to the crag, but ended up using another persons truck. I really feel like he could have been better utilized at the scene having more extensive medical background than my friend.
This same guy later suggested this terrible route to me and my friend as some sort of cruel joke at Shady Grove stating that is was a good warmup for other harder routes in the area. It was the most awful route on the whole dang wall and she will certainly tell him her opinion on that subject if she sees him again.
Another thing, some guy jumped in the truck with the patient in the back and identified himself as a doctor, supposedly delayed getting the patient in the ambulance b/c he too wants to assess the patient. Turns out this guy is a medical student, not a doctor, and is suing his medical school over some issue. Then I hear that this same guy is claiming that he was there for the whole rescue, that no one else knew what was going on, and taking claim for helping this guy. Sounds like he lied about being MD and delayed things.
Sorry, it started as what happened that day and what could be learned, but it turned into a vent session.
