RRC Archives

Meadows wrote: The route has an R/X start in my opinion

Wouldn't every sport route have an r/x rating to the first bolt, without it being clipped already? You fall, you deck.

I guess some routes have friendlier landing zones then others, so maybe that has more to do with people getting hurt falling going to the first then anything.

Meadows wrote: The route has an R/X start in my opinion and I bet that is the opinion of Dru and Ed Mank - two people who took that tumble (Ed broke some bones too).

Something tells me Ed Mank does not think this is a R/X route.

For Meadow's bleeding heart.

User: JR Date: Nov 9th, 2009
Comments: The opening moves are often wet. Be aware that many accidents involving experienced climbers have occurred attempting this route. I would recommend stick clipping.

Wes wrote:
Wouldn't every sport route have an r/x rating to the first bolt, without it being clipped already? You fall, you deck.

.

Yeah so carry a big stick clip.

JR wrote:
Something tells me Ed Mank does not think this is a R/X route.

He's a bonafide stick clip user now so of course he doesn't.

Meadows wrote: The route has an R/X start in my opinion and I bet that is the opinion of Dru and Ed Mank - two people who took that tumble (Ed broke some bones too).

I wrote:
Something tells me Ed Mank does not think this is a R/X route.

Meadows wrote:He's a bonafide stick clip user now so of course he doesn't.

You are confusing the shit out of me!

i don't see how a high first bolt means R/X. runout? i didn't clip into my rope bag, so it's not technically runout. the end.

Ed Mank's story of decking and fracturing several vertebral bodies is one of the more rad stories of Red lore. Actually, the fall wasn't that impressive, but how he handled himself in the days, weeks, and months after is amazing. The dude is BAAAADDDD!

lurk has it right...Mank has some of the best stories ever.