Twinkie & Ro questions?
-
davyanderson
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 3:45 pm
11D Jug Haul --super steep with clean falls--crux is at the top on smaller rails. Gold Ruch at the Gallery Definitely a must do before 12a
Also--Mama Benson at Dark Side is steep and juggy until the 4th bolt--all falls safe from there. 12a
BetaVul Pipeline at Bob Marley is another steep jug haul until the 5th bolt. Crux after that--all air if you fall. 12a
Chainsaw is a steep endurance 12a that you will not fall on until after the 5th bolt--clean falls.
Also--Mama Benson at Dark Side is steep and juggy until the 4th bolt--all falls safe from there. 12a
BetaVul Pipeline at Bob Marley is another steep jug haul until the 5th bolt. Crux after that--all air if you fall. 12a
Chainsaw is a steep endurance 12a that you will not fall on until after the 5th bolt--clean falls.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
Happy Halloween: http://i34.tinypic.com/2z8921g.jpg (self photography over at my local bouldering spot)
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
I'm going to have to agree with Lena on this one, which is odd because we never agree on anything. She placed the draws for me on Ro and I lead it, but I couldn't even get up Twinkie on TR. (My hardest send is .11a, but I've also lead Spirit Fingers, .11c - you should try that one, too.) Anyway, I think she meant getting off the ground is hard on Twinkie. I'm 5'5 and I still had to cheat to get off the ground. The slab isn't too bad; felt like .11b the way I did it. I got stuck when the steep part got steeper and I didn't have the strength to compensate for my lack of reach to get to the next jug. Oh, yeah, and that was right after I saw the Germans replace the bottom biner on one draw. I replaced another. There were more that needed replacing - as of October 4th.lena_chita wrote: As far as Ro vs. Twinkie, I will have to go againt the prevailing sentiment. Twinkie felt way harder for me. I have only been on it once, and have not sent it yet. Maybe I need a short person beta for the start, b/c that's where I was having most trouble, the roof was fine. But unless you are 5ft tall, YMMV. I probably should go back to it...