best 5.7 sport route for some one new to leading

Post by **DriskellHR** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:06 pm

REDPOINT, I have a couple of petzl ascenders from my window washing days, both of them took a 100ft fall onto concrete, they were in a bag so they had some padding. They are still solid, aluminum is soft and wont fracture as easy as you would think, It would bend first..... Just be sure to be redundant with your gear and you'll be solid.

But I dont know what I'm talking about so.....

Post by **krampus** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:23 pm

Josephine wrote:
bcombs wrote:
Redpoint wrote:...I figured if used once a week and if there is 48 weeks in a year, than you could just say 48 days worth of sport climbing.
You are the man, Redpoint.

Post by **bcombs** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:26 pm

Post by **Jay** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:33 pm

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:23 pm

Darnit you guys, I know that just because you climbed on it for 48 sport climbing days doesn't mean you should retire it, it's just Mammuts approximation.

If calculating the amount of days you went sport climbing on a rope and when it might be a good idea when to retire it based on that is so stupid, then why would professional outfitters even bother using a rope log book?

Considering I have only taken a few sport falls on my rope but used it over 10 times, I would have to say that out of mammuts 48 day estimate, there is only about 1 day of that 48 missing on my rope anyhow, considering most people take a few sport falls on it each day theu climb on it anyhow.

Mammut did say to retire it at your discretion, which is obvious anyhow. From what I can tell, most of you would never retire your rope from sport climbing regardless of how many fall factor 1 falls are on it, or how little it stretches these days, so if anybody has safety issues it's you guys.

It's like how Wes said I was giving out unsafe advice for saying to retire dropped gear, and he recommended still using it because it's fine. My advice of retiring the stuff wouldn't have got anybody hurt, so I didn't see his point. It has become obvious that I am over cautious on here, and too "by the book", but considering I have only been climbing for a year, the sport still scares me.

For most of the sports I am involved with you never let your gaurd down, it's not like just because I have 5 years of experience white water rafting that I am going to say scouting rapids is for gumbies. Or that since I am a highly experienced vertical caver, that when I do a bunny trip I am only going to take 1 source of light with me. So I doubt I will ever clip in the draws incorrectly no matter how long I have been climbing, and I'm sorry for being so careful guys and trying to learn stuff from you all on here

Does anybody on here have any forearm crank I can just borrow?

Post by **ahab** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:26 pm

if it makes you feel any better, i can't wait to read your book.

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:46 pm

Well all I have to do now is just copy everything I have written in this forum and paste it in Microsoft Word, so it will be out pretty soon I am hoping. It really all depends on my stupid publisher, but I do already have the printer picked out, and I went and visited their warehouse just last week.

Post by **Jay** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 6:30 pm

Redpoint wrote:Well all I have to do now is just copy everything I have written in this forum and paste it in Microsoft Word

But wouldn't that be plagiarism?

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 6:38 pm

Nope, not as long as you cite everything that wasn't written by yourself.

Post by **Jay** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:03 pm

Sooo... like, all of it???