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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:12 pm
by TradMike
Most multi-pitch trad routes will have a pitch or two of gaston, compression, sloper, crimp, knee drops, underclings, backstep, heel hook, dyno, double pop, etc, etc... in between the pitches of OW, Crack, Flakes, Chimney, Dihedral, Roof, etc. etc.. but you will have to protect those you wish were sport pitches with trad gear. Only to race sunset on a route you have to commit to instead of some cheap thrill of a single pitch sport route.
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:13 pm
by TradMike
I do like cheap thrills though
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:22 pm
by rhunt
Of all the ways to use holds as pigsteak listed, I am always amazed when I see a sportie squeal and cry when their proj has a lone hand jam and they can't figure out how to jam. It cetainly isn't socket science and you should not have to be shown how to do it...just do it.
That video was bouldering with a rope and 80% of the gear (there is NO trad climbing at the red) routes at the red are glorified sport routes. Most can be done with the millon of different cams that are available making it no harder than hanging a draw and clipping it and most have nice bolted anchors. I am not saying this would ever be me but leave all your cams at home and go gear route climbing at the red.
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:48 pm
by rustyvasectomy
Handjamming is wierd to pick up but after the fifteen minute tutorial, anyone can do it. it takes no strength or talent, just an ability to tolerate mild discomfort. I can show any chuffer on the street how to crimp though, and they will have to spend years gathering enough strength to do it.
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 8:58 pm
by anticlmber
rustyvasectomy wrote: I can show any chuffer on the street how to crimp though, and they will have to spend years gathering enough strength to do it.
unless they are already stronger than you.
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 9:07 pm
by bazoqop
More fat old traddies bouldering with a rope and very bad gear..
Part one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c83lw1JW1v4
Part two
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onXqC9V7 ... re=related
What weakmos...
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:02 pm
by ynot
Hey!!! they weren't fat or old. Those pinnacles look sweeeet.
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:49 pm
by rustyvasectomy
new school traddies following old school traddie ethic. sounds fishy
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 1:23 pm
by ahab
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 1:38 pm
by bjdm151
I popped in Dosage Four the other mostly to watch the awesome bouldering but I kept watching the part where that guy does two routes on El Cap in one day. Yea there were a few bolts placed here and there but not many of those pitches were 5.10. If you haven't seen it it might change your mind.