Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:27 pm

so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:18 pm

absoutely

Post by **512OW** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:25 pm

elcapitan1974 wrote:How long did it take Cobra crack to be freed? Years from what Ive read, and only freed in the last few years. 14a I believe is the rating. How long does it take a 14a sport route to be freed after bolted?

Maybe its just that the right people hadn't tried it. Ethan did it in a few days, as did Segal and Nico. The grade was settled at 14b/c.

All who worked it have commented that you really only get 2 good tries a day, and sometimes only 1, because the pain was so much, so it was hard to "work" like a sport route. It took Nico 15 tries over 8 days... with a friendlier route that could have easily been 3 days.

Nobody has used Sonnies original beta either, and they all feel his way was at least 14c... maybe d.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:26 pm

Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-

Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:35 pm

512OW wrote:
Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...

not true, you hater. I saw a traddie with all his jinglies out at bruise brothers the other day, cruising a 5.10. he let anyone within earshot know that he would soon be moving up to 11a.

At first, I thought he was a noob, but after seeing the trad rack, I wasn't sure. It is difficult to differentiate between the two.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:57 am

512OW wrote:
Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...

I'm laughing here. so true.....

Post by **jlutotherescue** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:12 pm

maybe instead of using trad as the word to describe a route we should be saying "gear protected" or better yet SPORT!

ive projected gear protected lines, sat on cams, taken falls, and spents multiple days on some routes and in my opinion......thats sport style. i might be placing gear but there is nothing traditional about an ascent that way.

this is new school!

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:32 pm

jlu...the first bright idea out of the "trad" camp.....ya gotta remember though, most of your "gear" brethern don't project routes, b/c they only climb 3-6 weekends a year, and to project would mean to admit failure at times. traddies prefer to hide behind their excuses for sucking.....

the gear was tricky
the gear sucked
the crack was wet

instead of...

I am too weak and suck
or
I am too lazy to be a real climber, but I like the idea of calling myself a climber, so I will hide behind "trad" climbing, where we get late starts, hike for two hours, climb two pitches, spend an hour getting stuck gear out, let all my buds TR my sick 5.8 proj, go drink some beers, spray about it at miggies.....and then the audacity...they call it a "climbing day"...dooooods, that is closer to harry the hiker than reggie the redpointer.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:45 pm

yer crack is wet hehehehe

Post by **L Day** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 3:24 pm

512OW wrote:
Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...

So what happened to the traddies that could climb? Did all of them either move away or turn into sport weenies? I guess you're not counting those who, ahem, "swing both ways". I mean climb sport and trad.