The most technique-intensive route you've climbed at the RRG

[toad857]

i like it.... it can be applied to any type of climbing: the 'A*' state could equal a slippery slab move, or it could be a huge lunge--to do it optimally, you would hope to lower that excited state as much as possible without falling (in which case, the 'reaction' doesn't take place--doesn't cross the threshold)

but it don't think it applies to resting on a big jug and getting rid of the battery acid arms

[caribe]

i like it.... it can be applied to any type of climbing

This is rather pleasing. I seriously thought you lot would laugh me out of the forum.

[toad857]

Hell you could sum these differences in body positions statistically and use something related to the Eyring equation to calculate general route difficulty.

yeah, but it would have to include so many operators to totally encompass every type of body dimension... but it could be done. you're talking cutting edge stuff

the only problem is that it doesn't take into account the mental aspect (courage, fear, etc etc).

it's the same reason that they still can't predict who's going to win the kentucky derby--the leftover variability is all in the horse's brain.

[pigsteak]

i like it.... it can be applied to any type of climbing

This is rather pleasing. I seriously thought you lot would laugh me out of the forum.

haaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaa


ha.

[caribe]

the only problem is that it doesn't take into account the mental aspect (courage, fear, etc etc).

I have gone too far already, but you could put a stress detecting helmet on people and capture some of this at all points on the route . . .

it's the same reason that they still can't predict who's going to win the kentucky derby--the leftover variability is all in the horse's brain.

Here we have certainly fallen off anything even close to tenable. Nobody can predict the future. Departing from any set of beginning parameters possible futures diverge stoichastically with each and EVERY quantum event. All bets are off here. This is the realm of miz Cleo and not the realm of fun, off the cuff, geeky musing.
http://www.familyguyarcade.net/games/26 ... pdown.html

[caribe]

haaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaa ha.

I knew it!

[the lurkist]

The only problem with applying this is that there are many routes that are not one discrete high energy state, but full tilt boogie get it on high energy got to punch it from the ground to the anchors all the way. Let's face it, climbing requires much energy input and there is no point in any climb where a human would naturally occur in a resting state.

[caribe]

The only problem with applying this is that there are many routes that are not one discrete high energy state

As is currently done the technique/grade-determining point would be the crux or a series of cruxes (entropic component) and the minimum energy that needs to be output for the move (enthalpic component). This could be calculated given all the route specifications and the individuals body parameters.

and there is no point in any climb where a human would naturally occur in a resting state.

All it takes to apply the math is the presence of points on a route that are of lower effort than other points. All the levels of effort on the route are relative to the level of effort on the ground. We would assign a value of zero for this. On the ground many body configurations with little effort are attainable.

[rjackson]

OK. So you barely mentioned 'mental' in your opening round. Fear, control, focus... it's the new way to climb, right? But my real question is, "Don't molecules and chemical reactions abide by laws, whereas the climber is not bound?"

A simple thread about technique, is not...

[caribe]

"Don't molecules and chemical reactions abide by laws, whereas the climber is not bound?"

Yes, If you put two collections of climbers side by side they would not come to thermal equilibrium. People are not sub-nano-sized particles that dissipate their kinetic energy off each other.
• In any case I think it might be feasible to calculate the difficulty level of a climb based on restricted body position and strain throughout those positions.