Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:03 pm
You mean when I quit smoking AND lose 30 pounds... Sadly those two things don't go hand in hand...caribe wrote:Shamis: If/when you quit smoking you will climb rings around everyone.
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Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 12:23 am
Shamis wrote:Even if every move on the route was v5, I'd be shocked if it got more than a 13d.512OW wrote:There are lots of 5.14's that don't have a single move harder than V5, so why the concern about power?
I would think a 14a would have to have at least a v7 move on it.
I'm only quoting several people I know who've climbed at that level. I've heard of several... in Maple Canyon, Rifle, and Spain.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:53 am
Well, I guess if you're willing to travel all over to find the softest 14, then I'll agree with you. I have a nice list of 12's with no move harder than 11b on them for similar reasons512OW wrote:Shamis wrote:Even if every move on the route was v5, I'd be shocked if it got more than a 13d.512OW wrote:There are lots of 5.14's that don't have a single move harder than V5, so why the concern about power?
I would think a 14a would have to have at least a v7 move on it.
I'm only quoting several people I know who've climbed at that level. I've heard of several... in Maple Canyon, Rifle, and Spain.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 1:20 pm
The early word is 2:43:33 on todays attempt, so that would beat the old record by around two minutes.
Wes wrote:In the current quest for the speed record of the nose, here are the ages of the teams:pigsteak wrote:i can honestly say that my decline began around 38-39..I could still pull out some hard moves, but the time to recuperate is longer. so if you are used to cranking 8-10 pitches of hard climbs a day, be ready for a day of major soreness the following day.
Hans is 44 /Yuji is 39, and
Hubers are 40 and 42
Hans and Yuji's attempt today was clocked at 2 hours, 47 minutes, 30 sec. a couple minutes off the record. They are going to try again wednesday, and I think they had an attempt late last week. The nose is like 2,900 feet.
At nearly 38 I start to think about "peaking" or already peaked, but then I realize I have a few good years left (at least!) party because of guys like this.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:36 pm
so does this hit on something wes? maybe theyaren't getting any stronger in their old age, but just smarter. the experience of climbing el cap 300 times comes into play. plus, maybe our ability to handle endurance feats stays pretty high...their feat, while remarkable, does not support a conclusion of getting batter with age....I'd be interested to see if Hans is sending harder stuff now (or Yuji) than he did 15 years ago.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:40 pm
the key to sending harder in your old age is to have been weak in your youth- it's an inverse to be terse
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:15 pm
Shit, there are TONS of 12's with no move harder than 11b. I've been on 12c with no move harder than 11b...Shamis wrote:Well, I guess if you're willing to travel all over to find the softest 14, then I'll agree with you. I have a nice list of 12's with no move harder than 11b on them for similar reasons512OW wrote:Shamis wrote:
Even if every move on the route was v5, I'd be shocked if it got more than a 13d.
I would think a 14a would have to have at least a v7 move on it.
I'm only quoting several people I know who've climbed at that level. I've heard of several... in Maple Canyon, Rifle, and Spain.
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 2:04 am
k512OW wrote:Shit, there are TONS of 12's with no move harder than 11b. I've been on 12c with no move harder than 11b...
Also, please find me some 5.14's with no move harder than a v5, so I can start working them.
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 2:29 am
Ever done a one move V5? Not easy. You're pretty badass if you can do 75 V5 moves in a row. I'd be willing to bet that at my current fitness level, I couldn't do 10.
I'll have a list of routes for you in a couple weeks.
I'll have a list of routes for you in a couple weeks.
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:14 am
gotta go with dub on that one. single move v5s or 3s for that matter are a pisser and nobody likes them. if every move is at YOUR max than good l=uck