Downhill

[Shamis]

Shamis: If/when you quit smoking you will climb rings around everyone.

You mean when I quit smoking AND lose 30 pounds... Sadly those two things don't go hand in hand...

[512OW]

There are lots of 5.14's that don't have a single move harder than V5, so why the concern about power?

Even if every move on the route was v5, I'd be shocked if it got more than a 13d.

I would think a 14a would have to have at least a v7 move on it.

I'm only quoting several people I know who've climbed at that level. I've heard of several... in Maple Canyon, Rifle, and Spain.

[Shamis]

There are lots of 5.14's that don't have a single move harder than V5, so why the concern about power?

Even if every move on the route was v5, I'd be shocked if it got more than a 13d.

I would think a 14a would have to have at least a v7 move on it.

I'm only quoting several people I know who've climbed at that level. I've heard of several... in Maple Canyon, Rifle, and Spain.

Well, I guess if you're willing to travel all over to find the softest 14, then I'll agree with you. I have a nice list of 12's with no move harder than 11b on them for similar reasons

[Wes]

The early word is 2:43:33 on todays attempt, so that would beat the old record by around two minutes.

i can honestly say that my decline began around 38-39..I could still pull out some hard moves, but the time to recuperate is longer. so if you are used to cranking 8-10 pitches of hard climbs a day, be ready for a day of major soreness the following day.

In the current quest for the speed record of the nose, here are the ages of the teams:

Hans is 44 /Yuji is 39, and
Hubers are 40 and 42

Hans and Yuji's attempt today was clocked at 2 hours, 47 minutes, 30 sec. a couple minutes off the record. They are going to try again wednesday, and I think they had an attempt late last week. The nose is like 2,900 feet.

At nearly 38 I start to think about "peaking" or already peaked, but then I realize I have a few good years left (at least!) party because of guys like this.

[pigsteak]

so does this hit on something wes? maybe theyaren't getting any stronger in their old age, but just smarter. the experience of climbing el cap 300 times comes into play. plus, maybe our ability to handle endurance feats stays pretty high...their feat, while remarkable, does not support a conclusion of getting batter with age....I'd be interested to see if Hans is sending harder stuff now (or Yuji) than he did 15 years ago.

[Crankmas]

the key to sending harder in your old age is to have been weak in your youth- it's an inverse to be terse

[512OW]

Even if every move on the route was v5, I'd be shocked if it got more than a 13d.

I would think a 14a would have to have at least a v7 move on it.

I'm only quoting several people I know who've climbed at that level. I've heard of several... in Maple Canyon, Rifle, and Spain.

Well, I guess if you're willing to travel all over to find the softest 14, then I'll agree with you. I have a nice list of 12's with no move harder than 11b on them for similar reasons

Shit, there are TONS of 12's with no move harder than 11b. I've been on 12c with no move harder than 11b...

[Shamis]

Shit, there are TONS of 12's with no move harder than 11b. I've been on 12c with no move harder than 11b...

k

Also, please find me some 5.14's with no move harder than a v5, so I can start working them.

[512OW]

Ever done a one move V5? Not easy. You're pretty badass if you can do 75 V5 moves in a row. I'd be willing to bet that at my current fitness level, I couldn't do 10.

I'll have a list of routes for you in a couple weeks.

[anticlmber]

gotta go with dub on that one. single move v5s or 3s for that matter are a pisser and nobody likes them. if every move is at YOUR max than good l=uck