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Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 5:55 pm
by Pru
next time invite me, Charlie! I love the NRG. I learned to climb there a loooong time ago (you'd think I would know how by now...)
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:10 pm
by rhunt
Charlie I had no idea you were a trad chuffer too.
I have wanted to do that climb but have never been to Beauty strangely enough. I hear the top part and top out can be weird/hard. Did that climb give you any hassle?
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:14 pm
by charlie
Pru, consider yourself invited (like you need me to tell you that).
Beauty is pretty rad, we climbed at Endless the day before and this was more of the kind of climbing I was used to. Whole trip was a learning experience for me, and I've climbed at Lumpy, Flatirons, Eldo, and Boulder canyon in the last month.
[beta]Supercrack was long, but not too bad. I'm no stranger to trad and this wasn't too bad for me, 9+ but if you're comfortable at that grade it's cool. Sustained mostly, decent stances every 10 feet or so and the top is maybe 15 feet of pure mother loving hand/foot jam steepness. If you can hang off jams and torque your feet it's not bad, my favorite part of the climb for sure.[/beta]
Weird, but I took 2 (almost 3) lead falls Sat on stuff well within my range so I had major demons in my head. The New was a very strange place and the headgames were the hardest part Sunday. Thankfully Supercrack fixed that for me!
and since this is a pic thread, this is a reminder of why we're waiting for the winter!!!!!!!!!!
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:28 pm
by pigsteak
finally, a picture that makes sense.
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:37 pm
by rockman
Charile is a Butt Hugger!
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 4:00 pm
by dmw
BumBoy is going down this year.... I hope.
There was an 11 at Beauty (sport route) that def. made me pay close attention to what I was doing... the New will do that to you, Chuck. I think it is way harder, but that is bc I suck so bad....
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 6:19 pm
by Andrew
Bum Boy, nice. Finally you will do V1 dmw.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 6:28 pm
by charlie
rockman wrote:Charile is a Butt Hugger!
You know it, just wish I could close the deal a bit more often.
Yeah, the rock at the new is a bit challenging it's so polished.
Freakin Millipede is gonna go for me this year too damn it!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:10 pm
by Andrew
Millipede, nice. Finally you will do V3 charlie.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:27 pm
by charlie
Tho I admit I'm tall enough to make Bumboy V2, no way am I tall enough to make Millipede V3.
How does lowdown feel for you there Lurch?