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The gumby move is climbing at Johnny wall

i can't believe i'm advocating violence on the internet. rubicon anyone?

climb2core wrote:The gumby move is climbing at Johnny wall

I wasn't climbing, It was my rest day. I belayed a friend and walked around in between belaying, offering a stick-clip to people who were about to break ankles.

There were a bunch of people who idolized you at that wall though... you should have told then that climbing at Johnny's wall was not O.K., and they would have listened, because they totally hang on to your every word. I have heard a lot about mighty Ian in couple hours that i was there. I heard you can climb, gasp, 5.12!!!!!! no kidding, really!! oh, and also, apparently you wouldn't take when people ask for a take, because you are tough that way.

lena_chita wrote:

powen01 wrote:We really need to start rating tickmarks.

(eyeroll)

I am thinking that every tickmark should have a note attached, explaining whether this is supposed to be a jug or a crimp, whether it is meant to be used as a gaston, sidepull or undercling, and which hand should go there. Oh, and also, instead of a tickmark the holds should be labeled with brackets, showing the best part on the hold to grab, painted in nail polish-type compound, to avoid accidentally erasing them.

Wow that sounds like a lot of work. I hope you are just kidding about that, unless Super Safe deems it a good idea.

lena_chita wrote: I am thinking that every tickmark should have a note attached, explaining whether this is supposed to be a jug or a crimp, whether it is meant to be used as a gaston, sidepull or undercling, and which hand should go there. Oh, and also, instead of a tickmark the holds should be labeled with brackets, showing the best part on the hold to grab, painted in nail polish-type compound, to avoid accidentally erasing them.

Can we just replace all tickmarks with colored tape?

lena_chita wrote:I have heard a lot about mighty Ian in couple hours that i was there. I heard you can climb, gasp, 5.12!!!!!! no kidding, really!!

debatable...

lena_chita wrote:

climb2core wrote:The gumby move is climbing at Johnny wall

I wasn't climbing, It was my rest day. I belayed a friend and walked around in between belaying, offering a stick-clip to people who were about to break ankles.

There were a bunch of people who idolized you at that wall though... you should have told then that climbing at Johnny's wall was not O.K., and they would have listened, because they totally hang on to your every word. I have heard a lot about mighty Ian in couple hours that i was there. I heard you can climb, gasp, 5.12!!!!!! no kidding, really!! oh, and also, apparently you wouldn't take when people ask for a take, because you are tough that way.

LMAO. That would be Amir. He is a goofy guy, but one of the nicest people you will ever meet. When you made your original post I cringed... I had a sinking suspicion that would be my gumby gang LOL. Your observations reveals the true sad state of the climbing scene in Columbus. I introduced them to this crazy new thing while climbing we do called "falling".

BTW, glad you are ok.

jordancolburn wrote:

lena_chita wrote: I am thinking that every tickmark should have a note attached, explaining whether this is supposed to be a jug or a crimp, whether it is meant to be used as a gaston, sidepull or undercling, and which hand should go there. Oh, and also, instead of a tickmark the holds should be labeled with brackets, showing the best part on the hold to grab, painted in nail polish-type compound, to avoid accidentally erasing them.

Can we just replace all tickmarks with colored tape?

Not unless you have figured out a way to make it stick well, for at least as long as the bolts are expected to last. If you only need to retape once every 10 years or so, maybe during rebolting, that could work. Otherwise...

Who is going to walk around and maintain all the tape on all the routes? Unless climb2core volunteers?

I've noticed that blue chalk is rather hard to clean off...

lena_chita wrote:Who is going to walk around and maintain all the tape on all the routes? Unless climb2core volunteers?

That was my next initiative after the fixed gear thing. The Red River Gorge Tape Inspection Troop. aka RRG TIT