RRC Archives

charlie wrote:Y'all want my position go ahead and step right up.

If you want me to be nice I'll try and be nice. It continues to irk me that people with little credibility/experience in matters do not hesitate to speak up and question things around here (i.e. this is how you should clean Ro, even tho I've never been on it)

Would be nice if people would think before they posted, but I'll keep my mouth shut if it makes y'all happy.

Good leaders are hard to find keep up the good work

Andrew wrote:example gretchen

I'm gonna headbutt you in the nuts next time I see you.

I know he was posting as Charlie, that's why the second part of my statement listed what he had said as a person, not the coalition. He has belittled several people on here for bringing up safety in other areas and now all of a sudden he wants to talk safety. He needs to make up his mind. What I want to know is who is supposed to take any action before it is discussed? He wants people to put up actions but doesn't want anyone to talk about anything without doing something. It is a catch-22. All actions must first be checked with others yet no one can discuss something without having first done something. My reading comprehension is not the problem.

Saxman wrote:.... My reading comprehension is not the problem.

Here are the cliff notes....

A conversation pertaining to implied safety and the idea that landowner/climbing community is responsible for you not getting hit by a rock, stung by a bee, or not having to inspect the anchors you are hanging from is one thing.

A conversation hoping to help people that have very little experience in a situation to STFU because someone else that has no idea will likely take that post as valid input is an altogether different thing.

Am I off base in thinking that even though they both relate to safety, they are different conversations?

Granted, that's just my understanding of things from an individual climber standpoint, not a RRGCC BOD member.

Charlie, it won't be hard for you to headbutt me in the nuts considering how often my nuts are on your chin.

Andrew wrote:I am telling you the kirker method is flawless, but no one seems to care. I just down climbed the last bolt or two on the routes I did the past couple days to clean and not swing.

Or, just climb back up a bolt or two before letting go

kirker wrote,

If its tighten down with a wrench, and I'm not suppose to climb with one. What good is that quicklink going to be for the next guy.

Okay... you're lost. I'm not advocating everybody climb with a wrench and you constantly open and close the screwlink. You tighten down the first time and leave it. The next guy just threads it, by recleaning at that bolt, you can make that the new anchor, or if you're uncomfortable with one point, stay on the top and just thread the screwlink.

Many steep climbs at the Red have tightened screwlinks (that aren't from bailing)on a middle bolt. Climbers do this all the time.

Climbers do this all the time.

not that this is a good indication of safe behavior safe mind you, but this time it's fine.

Green3 wrote:kirker wrote,

If its tighten down with a wrench, and I'm not suppose to climb with one. What good is that quicklink going to be for the next guy.

Okay... you're lost. I'm not advocating everybody climb with a wrench and you constantly open and close the screwlink. You tighten down the first time and leave it. The next guy just threads it, by recleaning at that bolt, you can make that the new anchor, or if you're uncomfortable with one point, stay on the top and just thread the screwlink.

Many steep climbs at the Red have tightened screwlinks (that aren't from bailing)on a middle bolt. Climbers do this all the time.

What he meant was, How are we supposed to steal your quicklink if you tighten it with a wrench and then tell us not to climb with one. I thought the same thing when I read your original post.

Anyway like Andrew said, use the kirkermatic steep cleaner and your all set and this whole conversation is pointless.

wow and for three days it was beautiful. is that why everyones angry??

RO can be cleaned "as safe as is possible" on both the lower after a lead AND TR'd with the climber then rapping down. both ways have been done many times without a problem by me. with that said, don't fuck up. choose the way that you see fit and be aware of YOUR actions and the repercussions. i know this first hand, i run my mouth; bitches.

charlie isn't talking out of both sides of his mouth. knew exactly what he meant. we all want to be safe and want others to not get hurt. most of us did that through FIRST HAND knowledge which builds EXPERIENCE. if you are unsure of something; read a book, get a professional guide, ask knowledgeable people. NOT a stranger or the guy that took his belay test with you. if you don't have the experience, (and doing it twice DOES NOT count) DON'T pretend. egos kill.