RRC Archives

ynot wrote:

pigsteak wrote:should it go back to the original developer? if a buster, porter, or hugh route needs new equipment, then they should be the ones doing it and paying for it? is it the responsibility of the original equipper to stay on top of his routes? if that person no longer climbs, then the route needs to be stripped, or then team suck comes to the rescue.
I hate to think of the day when my routes are in dire need. I might just pull the bolts instead, and let someone else rebolt it as a new and improved line. also, on routes in softer rock, should we consider the glueins with stainless hardware as the only replacement method?

I am with Wes..I have no idea how to visually tell when a bolt is gonna blow.

but now that caribe is the bank, I think I will open an ACH with Nat City.

Mention a bolt that looks shady to the person that placed it and you'll get a half hour ass chewing on why it's none of thier responsibility and fuck no they aren't going to replace it. At least that's what you would get from Terry. Johnny was a shade nicer about it but the result was the same, so no it doesn't go back to the bolter and never will. It's rock climbing you do it at your own risk and the bolter is never going to be held liable.
I'm up for helping drill holes at Funk rock or any other crag even if it's by hand. say when.

I disagree with 98% of your response... all except the last line.

flip wrote:I know you can replace bolt for bolt but how do the FS restrictions on bolts work for adding a bolted anchor to replace a rappel tree?

Yesterday I had to rap from a tree that was half dead and the roots pulled half way out of the ground when I weighted it.

You HAD to rap from that tree?

Meaning there were no other trees, no walk down, no top anchors on other climbs?

OR....

You CHOSE to rap from that tree, risking your life so that you didn't have to walk so far in your too tight shoes to find a decent anchor?

rockman wrote:

ynot wrote:

pigsteak wrote:should it go back to the original developer? if a buster, porter, or hugh route needs new equipment, then they should be the ones doing it and paying for it? is it the responsibility of the original equipper to stay on top of his routes? if that person no longer climbs, then the route needs to be stripped, or then team suck comes to the rescue.
I hate to think of the day when my routes are in dire need. I might just pull the bolts instead, and let someone else rebolt it as a new and improved line. also, on routes in softer rock, should we consider the glueins with stainless hardware as the only replacement method?

I am with Wes..I have no idea how to visually tell when a bolt is gonna blow.

but now that caribe is the bank, I think I will open an ACH with Nat City.

Mention a bolt that looks shady to the person that placed it and you'll get a half hour ass chewing on why it's none of thier responsibility and fuck no they aren't going to replace it. At least that's what you would get from Terry. Johnny was a shade nicer about it but the result was the same, so no it doesn't go back to the bolter and never will. It's rock climbing you do it at your own risk and the bolter is never going to be held liable.
I'm up for helping drill holes at Funk rock or any other crag even if it's by hand. say when.

I disagree with 98% of your response... all except the last line.

C'mon Rockman... By "last line", I assume you mean "It's rock climbing you do it at your own risk and the bolter is never going to be held liable." This troubles me.

There were 540 characters in Ynots response. If you only agreed with the "last line", then you agreed with 94 of those characters. This constitutes approximately 17.2% agreeance.

You should apologize to Ynot and tell him that you actually agree with 82.8% of his response. We're all in this together... lets be honest with each other, ok?

The mathmatition is correct. I defer Mr Bling Bling himself. 82.8%

I got on a two pitch climb and couldn't tell if the second pitch was dry. After I got to the belay ledge I decided not to do the next pitch because it was very wet. Although the tree was questionable it looked ok until I started to rap down.

Now yes I could have built an anchor and lowered from that but I was already on my way before my partner informed me of the problem. Most likely the tree will hold for awhile longer but some bolts would be nice. And no their was no other tree or any other means of walking off just a bunch or loose rock.

I may have been a little over dramatic about half way but my point is that this tree will not last much longer.

I was just playing devils advocate. I agree that bolted anchors are nice. In the case of Lost In Space (what I assume you're speaking of), it doesn't get climbed all that often, and I'm not sure of its status with the bolting issues. My guess is that bolting there is legal, but I'm not sure.

And to play devils advocate a little more... thats the chance you take when you get on a multipitch climb. Be prepared to leave gear if a descent is necessary.

asdf

the lurkist wrote:Sorry to be silent. I was climbing today (could I see a show of hands for everyone who got to climb today in these glorious 67 degrees temps? Suckas)

Caribe, not to dog on you, but you are craving it. Dude, you think folks will use good judgement and recognize bolts that are jingus? We are talking about the same 20 yo kids who come out of the gyms and drop there partner using a Gri Gri for the first time.
You give entirely too much credit to most of the climbers out there.
Most folks see a bolt and assume it is bomber. End of story.

FRC is not only jingus, but triple flingus. Kip is right. If I am given the go ahead I am up there tomorrow fixing my routes and probably a bunch of others. I have stood down b/c of RRGCC's concerns about transgressing the FS and electric drills in Wilderness. I will tell you something though, someone better get that fucking window of permission, cause I am not waiting much longer. I will not be the dude who has some kid deck on one of his routes.

Say the word, Lurk. I'm in, regardless.

how many people are currently bolting/rebolting in the gorge? not people that want to learn in order to help w/this - but people that already know what they're doing, own a drill, and can (and will) just go out and do it. maybe it actually is possible to get 5 or more drills going at one time.

if the entire cliff is rebolted, that means replacing 109 bolts + however many are on go easy billy clyde (unlisted in the guide) and replacing 16 sets of anchors (not including any bolted anchors on trad climbs if there are any at this wall) if we have 5 drills that's a bit over 3 routes per drill. i'm guessing that would need to be a 3-day window?

how much does it cost per bolt to replace? how much does it cost to replace the anchors? for those of us with NO bolting skills, it seems we should donate to the teamsuckclimbing.com site for this specific project to cover the cost - then team suck could buy the gear and distribute to the non-team suck bolters that are willing to help.

i don't see how, if we have a tangible plan in place, the funds to back it, the wonderful people willing to do the dirty work, and are willing to do it in a very short period of time, the FS would say no.

then again - there are unreasonable people in the world.

Spragwa wrote:Perhaps the next clinic by the coalition should be a re-equipment clinic for an aging crag instead of a bolting clinic? That way people can see how much work it takes and maybe, just maybe, we can encourage some dedicated individual to take up wrench and their pocket books to assist the handful of people who are helping re-equip routes.

Excellent suggestion!