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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 1:28 pm
by SCIN
Buster wrote:
SCIN wrote:
Buster wrote:Not to worry, Rib. You haven't pissed me off, I still love you...
Martone might have been tweaked about it but the fact remains...
And another thing, Swahili Slang is not Moll's route. Brian McCray bolted and sent FA. He is prolly super bummed about the disinformation in the new guide. I know for a fact that he was super proud of that liine.
Wish I'd known about it before now.
Dude, it's all good. Your book is just awesome! There is no avoiding things like this.
There are definitely some mysteries in the guide that I noticed after the fact. Especially all the grade changes at the Lode. I had nothing to do with that. Hell, I haven't even climbed the lines that had their grades changed! Some people proofed the first edition and I think they changed the grades and may have changed the FA of Swahili too. I definitely could've fat fingered the Swahili FA but no way in hell did I downgrade all of those 13s.

Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 1:32 pm
by Buster
pigsteak wrote:OK, now Buster is kissing ass. I take back my vote. SCIN for Prez....Buster for Vice Fluffer.
Try as I might, I can't be a dickhead all the time.

Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 1:32 pm
by pigsteak
I think I am in love with Buster.

Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 1:59 pm
by Shamis
I have never been to an area that required stick clips like the red does. I can think of a lot of routes I've been on recently that assume a stick clip because the crux moves are before the first bolt which is 12+ feet up.

Previously I've been to lots of places where the first bolt would often be high up, but only when the climbing at the bottom was under the grade of the climb. So if I 5.12 had some 5.10 face moves at the bottom, the bolt might be high up, but if it had 5.11d moves at the bottom, then there would be a bolt.

Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 11:09 am
by Paul3eb
Image

Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 12:30 pm
by Andrew
Nice Paul, you have become a real dick.