Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:45 am
What part am I supposed to recall?
You can see where I said it was 11+ and you can see where it says 12b/c.
On the First attemp, by which I surpassed the crux (after a hang) by grabbing my shoe, which was locked into a dish and a scum above the roof and pulling up on it, I believed the rotue to be 5.12. After I cleaned it with a nut-tool and could get fingers in it, I called it 11+.
A lot of folks started saying it was harder than this or harder than that and comparing it with other climbs. Jerry and I agreed that it we were not going to agree and also that it was harder than Jack Mac and the 11'ds around that area.
But we agreed that the climb was a different style.
In the end, I don't recall what he put in the mini-guide, but knowing that the trad grade was not that hard and also would get easier, we agreed that it should be sent to John Bronaugh as 11+. And so it was, or so I thought.
Anyway, at some point, at the age of 22 I may have taken the attitude that the climb was harder than I had declared and tried to prove that out. I guess my excuse would be that I was 22.
You will note that I just before your recent rant declared that I believed the grade to be 11b.
But how would you get there without allowing the spectrum of opinions including those below that grade?
At 34, I really don't care. My resume is fine and I've done plenty of 'hard' routes with plenty of witnesses. My contribution to this discussion was intended to point out that if you don't allow people to down-grade, that you won't hit consensus.
Anyway, good luck with finding a solution. Both adminning and programmina a site are thankless jobs, all-in-all.
--------------
"Well then, I hope your peepee smells like poopoo. If your dog is a $hit-eater, you are in for a better than average blowjob tonight."
You can see where I said it was 11+ and you can see where it says 12b/c.
On the First attemp, by which I surpassed the crux (after a hang) by grabbing my shoe, which was locked into a dish and a scum above the roof and pulling up on it, I believed the rotue to be 5.12. After I cleaned it with a nut-tool and could get fingers in it, I called it 11+.
A lot of folks started saying it was harder than this or harder than that and comparing it with other climbs. Jerry and I agreed that it we were not going to agree and also that it was harder than Jack Mac and the 11'ds around that area.
But we agreed that the climb was a different style.
In the end, I don't recall what he put in the mini-guide, but knowing that the trad grade was not that hard and also would get easier, we agreed that it should be sent to John Bronaugh as 11+. And so it was, or so I thought.
Anyway, at some point, at the age of 22 I may have taken the attitude that the climb was harder than I had declared and tried to prove that out. I guess my excuse would be that I was 22.
You will note that I just before your recent rant declared that I believed the grade to be 11b.
But how would you get there without allowing the spectrum of opinions including those below that grade?
At 34, I really don't care. My resume is fine and I've done plenty of 'hard' routes with plenty of witnesses. My contribution to this discussion was intended to point out that if you don't allow people to down-grade, that you won't hit consensus.
Anyway, good luck with finding a solution. Both adminning and programmina a site are thankless jobs, all-in-all.
--------------
"Well then, I hope your peepee smells like poopoo. If your dog is a $hit-eater, you are in for a better than average blowjob tonight."