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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:45 am
by tonybubb
What part am I supposed to recall?
You can see where I said it was 11+ and you can see where it says 12b/c.
On the First attemp, by which I surpassed the crux (after a hang) by grabbing my shoe, which was locked into a dish and a scum above the roof and pulling up on it, I believed the rotue to be 5.12. After I cleaned it with a nut-tool and could get fingers in it, I called it 11+.
A lot of folks started saying it was harder than this or harder than that and comparing it with other climbs. Jerry and I agreed that it we were not going to agree and also that it was harder than Jack Mac and the 11'ds around that area.
But we agreed that the climb was a different style.
In the end, I don't recall what he put in the mini-guide, but knowing that the trad grade was not that hard and also would get easier, we agreed that it should be sent to John Bronaugh as 11+. And so it was, or so I thought.
Anyway, at some point, at the age of 22 I may have taken the attitude that the climb was harder than I had declared and tried to prove that out. I guess my excuse would be that I was 22.

You will note that I just before your recent rant declared that I believed the grade to be 11b.

But how would you get there without allowing the spectrum of opinions including those below that grade?

At 34, I really don't care. My resume is fine and I've done plenty of 'hard' routes with plenty of witnesses. My contribution to this discussion was intended to point out that if you don't allow people to down-grade, that you won't hit consensus.

Anyway, good luck with finding a solution. Both adminning and programmina a site are thankless jobs, all-in-all.
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"Well then, I hope your peepee smells like poopoo. If your dog is a $hit-eater, you are in for a better than average blowjob tonight."

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:49 am
by haas
I'm bummed I never went out and found this line before I left the Red, it sounded like a lot of fun - I love the obscure, hard lines.

Hey Tony, if you're looking for a partner anytime soon, let me know. I just moved to Thornton this past August and am still looking for some good trad partners.

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:29 am
by ynot
It's wild looking. Theres a couple other lines to the right that fit the description. The crack above isn't quite right tho. Anyone ever try them?

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:33 am
by tonybubb
Not from the original crew that was there. John and I just tried one I beleive I recall being to the left that we called "Arms M. Bargo." It's listed on this site.
Which turned chossy and I ended up pulling on gear the night before I left the red for my last time...
That route, once cleaned (maybe on rap?) would probably give up a decent and moderate free climb that is quite steep. You should give it a shot.

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:45 am
by ynot
Long Live Trad looks way more appealing. That and something else I found out there and fell off of repeatedly.

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:37 am
by Saxman
Amazing how everything we say online is now permanent. Scary and opportunity for fun at the same time.