Unless it's at Sunbeam Buttress and Jared set it.Alan Evil wrote: It's a short 5.9!!! WTF?!? If you can't get that in a few tries without putting chalk marks to point to every hold and foot placement you need to just stick to climbing in a gymn.
whatever happened to onsight climbing???
right so if we are to erase all the tick marks in order to save this pristine wilderness, then we should get out the buckets of soapy water and scrub off all the chalk too. We should also then remove all fixed gear. And for that matter, we should not even climb on this pristine rock where we leave trails of dead skin..."leave to trace."Alan Evil wrote:This is, after all, a national forest and a wilderness area, not a gymn. The ideal of "leave no trace" applies to EVERYONE that uses the Red, not everyone but sport climbers.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
Alan Evil wrote: It's a short 5.9!!! WTF?!? If you can't get that in a few tries without putting chalk marks to point to every hold and foot placement you need to just stick to climbing in a gymn.
Alan Evil wrote:
I got it with one fall on lead.
There were even chalk marks to point to every hold and foot placement. Well, I guess you need to stay in the gym.
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canadaclimbergirl
- Posts: 742
- Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 7:15 pm
As dumb as it sounds, it is required in some climbing areas....coloured chalk...
do any of you guys use the stuff that is 'sandstone' coloured for climbing in the red?
i have a few friends that were on road trips and did some climbing at a few areas that were 'no chalk or colour friendly' and had some left over when they got home. I tried it on a climb and it felt the same, though maybe not as drying as some chalks.
I wouldn't even know where to get it in Canada, but you must be able to come by it fairly easily in the US.
Would it be a pain for everyone to start using it? I know if they had been using it in Red Rocks instead of white chalk my onsights would have felt a little more authentic...
do any of you guys use the stuff that is 'sandstone' coloured for climbing in the red?
i have a few friends that were on road trips and did some climbing at a few areas that were 'no chalk or colour friendly' and had some left over when they got home. I tried it on a climb and it felt the same, though maybe not as drying as some chalks.
I wouldn't even know where to get it in Canada, but you must be able to come by it fairly easily in the US.
Would it be a pain for everyone to start using it? I know if they had been using it in Red Rocks instead of white chalk my onsights would have felt a little more authentic...
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman
no, that's not my point. my point is that "it's natural so what's the big deal" isn't a valid argument.Meadows wrote:So I guess you're going to stop using chalk - can I take what you have left?
i'll still use chalk through this weather. i may or may not use chalk this fall and winter depending on my need for it. i remember, though, a fall or two ago i didn't use it at all. i prefered to go without. summer climbing is, however, a horse of a different color.
[off the topic of the response]
i do think it's silly, though, how easily we rationalize away the impact we have on the environment. how can the rest of society not view us as hypocrites when we point and criticize others then deny everything when that finger is turned back towards us. why not acknowledge the impacts we have, work to minimize them, then recognize that we will have to make some sacrifices if we want to preserve those things that we claim to work to protect.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins