RRC Archives

I like that idea Ho. I think Rick and Tim like it too!

Wes wrote:I think the online grades that people vote for are soft on several routes that I kinda think of as soft as well. Not in muir, but in other areas. Esp. for some of the 12a'a. Who would want thier first .12 to be downrated to 11d? So, I would say Matt is right about that.

This might be true, but I was referring to the "overglorified 5.10's". Also, why would the voting be accurate for the other areas, but not it Muir? That seems quite odd too. Oh, there is so much that I don't understand...

I think some of the other ratings are soft as well. But, that is just me. I only vote if I think the grade is really off, and most of the time, I vote to bring a rating down, every once in awhile up. There is also the "human factor" of people grading routes based on trying to support the FA, or thier friend who may have done the route, or things of that nature. I think the on-line ratings idea is great, and it does provide feedback for sure. But, I also think it has some flaws as well.

The larger question is "Is it not possable to totally support the great work that you all are doing, yet, not agree with the grades?" I have only been out there a couple times, and haven't done enough stuff there to say for sure if things are soft or not.

I read once that there are only three grades.
5 easy.
5 fun.
5 hard.
They are what they are.

Are they one-ply soft or two-ply soft?

I don't mind people disagreeing about the grades (like I said we appreciate comments) and I expect criticisms, but there are a few people who are assholes about it and do it in a rude manner. Those people get quite annoying...

Joke 'em if they can't take a fuck!

I'd like to point out that most people do not come to this web page and vote/post. I can only think of a hand full of Columbus folks that use this web page. Point is, this wonderful online guide is not the general consensus.

Here is my theory- Of the 29 routes I've redpointed in muir valley (I'm excluding the ones I have not redpointed) they all feel a little easier than the grade because 1) The bolters a doing a good job of bolt placement, so you usually don't have to
worry about a painful fall
2) Therefore, I relax, and can climb without overgripping, freaking out and all that jazz. If this
3) makes me a pussy, I
4) Don't care.

The only ones a felt strongly about were makin' bacon: I think it feels more like a 5.10, so long as you are tall enough to do the 1st move.
I also thought Cyber punk was a little stiff.

Here's a thought......

Go climbing. When you think about commenting on a grade ask yourself if that's something a climber would say or something a number chaser would say. If you're cool with the fact that numbers have any relevance to your climbing day then great, number chasing sems to work for a lot of people. If you're the kind of person that has as much fun on an 8 as an 11 then why care what the grade is?

Numbers should be treated like a recipe, you season to taste.