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Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 3:31 pm
by Meadows
Just handing back the wit ...
I think you missed my point about how civilization is taking over - McMansions everywhere!
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 3:49 pm
by Artsay
Grading is subjective but the folks at Muir are doing their best. It's the whole biting the hand that feeds you thing. That's my point.
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 4:24 pm
by KD
i wouldn't think of backpacking in an area like the smoky mts. etc. without map/compass - but i never take one climbing. it is useful for outdoor folks to know basic map reading though.
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 4:47 pm
by Meadows
Artsay, So feedback/opinions are "bitching" and therefore, "biting the hand"?
Grading is subjective, but I think if people climb in an area enough, they get a general idea of how routes are rated. What's wrong with stating their opinions, especially if as you said, the developers are not giving much thought to it?
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 5:04 pm
by Artsay
Feedback is awesome! I was just reading the comments on some of the routes in Muir and some of the comments, like Smedley's, for example, "Nice but a golrified 5.10...Have you guys climbed other 11's at the Red?" are counter productive.
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 5:11 pm
by dhoyne
Feedback: "Nice climb, grade is a little soft at 10b, maybe it should be 10a?"
Unwanted comment: "Hey asshole, get your dick out of your ear and learn how to freaking grade a route!
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 5:13 pm
by Meadows
BTW, I do recall JRock downrating climbs elsewhere in the Red.
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 5:30 pm
by weber
pigsteak wrote:I'm with Odub on this Jrock..my answer would still be "so what"...who are we to dictate to anyone what their outdoor experience has to be? so what if I don't even own a compass....so what if I can't tell a cumulus from a rombus cloud...
J-Rock merely quoted an factual observation by Mr. Mellor. He wasn't "dictating". The quote:
"Rock climbers of old were good with a compass, could read the clouds, knew the names of the trees and the wildflowers. Their eyes were wide open to the place, and they saw climbing as only one of many ways to experience it. The newcomer today comes from a climbing gym or instructional service, entryways to the sport in which the focuss too often shifts from the wilderness experience to the numerical difficulty of the moves. Many new climbers are strong and skilled, but they tend to have gaps, both in their understanding of outdoor living and in their appreciation for the depth of climbing's heritage."
Recently, I've spent a lot of time down in Muir. And, the number of totally lost souls is profound. I enjoy meeting new climbers and pointing them in the right direction. Some of these folks are miles away from where they think they are, in spite of detailed maps being readily available and also posted on the kiosk.
No, I too am not "dictating" that people learn to read a compass or a map. Sometimes its fun just wandering around getting lost. Liz does it all the time. But, if you want to minimize your approach time and maximize your actual climbing time, you might want to consider following a map.
Most of you visiting the Valley have seen the new signs. New "You are here" maps are also being posted around the Valley. This should help.
One final note -- GPS coordinates are being provided to the local emergency services, so that in the event of an accident, precious time won't be lost getting to location. The Wolfe County Sheriff and EMS services have detailed maps of Muir. There is good cell phone reception at the parking lot (NOT in the Valley floor.) And, FRS channel 5.10 is usually monitored on weekends by Liz and me and occasionally by others in the Valley. Call if you have a problem or question.
Rick
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 6:06 pm
by weber
Most route developers welcome constructive criticism. But, the Smedley type of diatribe is undeserved.
I would encourage all climbers to spend a couple hours or so watching route developers put up a climb. Most of you have no idea how much thought and backbreaking work goes into this chore. We climbers owe a big debt to folks like Tim, Jared, Karla, J.J., Mike, Terry, Blake, and others for creating our vertical playgrounds.
Rick
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 6:35 pm
by kneebar
Soft or hard grading, in a perfect world grading would be all the same. But if I had to make a choice, I'd rather the grade to be a little soft. I just about died on a sandbagger route when i first got into trad. I'm more interested in having fun on a route then if its a 10d or a 11a. Maybe all you "hard" climbers can tell the difference between letter grades but surely not me! I'd just be happy if the area is consistent (which is the crux) on its grading, not all over the board. Besides as far as the grade, if you are having fun on the climb what difference does it make if its 10d or 11a? After climbing a few routes it you'll get used to the grading.