chainsaw massacre

Post by **Astroman** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 4:45 am

I tried to think of a NRG/Kaymoor/Summersville, T Wall, Foster Falls, Rifle, Eldo/Boulder, City of Rocks, Red Rocks, Smith Rock, Owens River, or Yosemite/Tuolumne 12a sport route that was more heavily traveled and I couldn't. I've never been to American Fork or VRG or Mt Charleston. Unless Freaky Stylee has become freaky popular the last 5 years or so I would say it doesn't compare. Nor does Fear and Loathing... in my opinion.

Post by **the lurkist** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 12:39 am

There is that seminal 5.12a at Smith just to the right of Darkness at Noon. It is 12a to a set of anchors, but if you continue it has a very run out 12 c finish. It has probably seen more exposure. (it is older, at Smith, etc...) Problem is, I can't remember its name.
There are a lot of climbers in the country. Eventually they all visit the Red. If they climb 5.12 they all do Chainsaw. I think these facts dictate that Chainsaw is one of the most climbed 12a's.
I can tell you that I have replaced worn out anchors on it twice (stainless steel worn 3/4 of the way through). Other than low end routes, I know of no route with this kind of traffic.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 1:02 am

I would imagine that Stay the Hand or Ro Shampo (11d/12a) are more popular 12a's at the Red. Also, I've seen a photo of Ro Shampo in a Classic Climbs calendar and a photo or two of Stay the Hand in Harrison Shull's Southeast Rock book. Check the search on this site and see which ones are more popular. Also, I don't recall seeing Chainsaw Massacre on the cover of any climbing mags, whereas Freaky Stylee has been on the cover of several major climbing publications. In addition it seems that most people mention Gung Ho and Tissue Tiger much more frequently than Chainsaw. I'm not saying that Chainsaw isn't a popular route because it definitely is, but I don't believe it is one of the most well known 12a's in the country or the most popular one at the Red.

Post by **Buster** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 1:44 am

the lurkist wrote:There is that seminal 5.12a at Smith just to the right of Darkness at Noon. It is 12a to a set of anchors, but if you continue it has a very run out 12 c finish. It has probably seen more exposure. (it is older, at Smith, etc...) Problem is, I can't remember its name.
There are a lot of climbers in the country. Eventually they all visit the Red. If they climb 5.12 they all do Chainsaw. I think these facts dictate that Chainsaw is one of the most climbed 12a's.
I can tell you that I have replaced worn out anchors on it twice (stainless steel worn 3/4 of the way through). Other than low end routes, I know of no route with this kind of traffic.

Heinous Cling

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 5:47 pm

What is the most published photographed sport climb in the country?(at any grade)

In your opinioin...

Post by **Lateralus** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 6:04 pm

gotta be chain reaction at smith

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 6:49 pm

yep..check it out, even I've been on the famous thigh-master route at Smith

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... pic_id=225

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 12:26 am

chain reaction sucks...(maybe because I couldn't do it?)

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 1:07 am

i thought every sport route i got on at smith sucked donkey dick. the trad climbing on the basalt climbing was very good though. man, i don't see how smith ever got so popular.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 9:35 pm

ho, we finally agree. Smith is waaay over rated, but then again we have to look at it from the perspective of the first ascensionists, and their desire to bolt. when we were out there, we were talking to Alan Watts, and he said Smith was picked for that reason....the rock sucked for placing pro (too many faces and too chossy), so bolts would not be chopped by the tradsters. and here we are, 20 years later.