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Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:00 pm
by Uncle Big Green
MiaRock wrote:UGB sorry i didn't realize the difference i do apologize....so what does your GF do when you are hang dogging on your sport projects?
haha, no need to apoligize. I don't do projects (but do fall/hang on occassion) and I'm single now. Usually, all my GFs climb harder than I do, so if something would have been a proj, they would have just put it up for me to TR.

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:01 pm
by pigsteak
new rules for all climbers....

before belaying at teh Red, please check in at the front desk for proficiency...

1- to use your gri gri, you must first use an ATC.

2- to use your ATC, you must first use a figure 8

3- to use your figure 8, you must first use a plate

4- to use your plate, you must first use 6 oval, non-locking biners.

5- to use your non locking biners, you must first use a munter belay

6- to use your munter belay, you must first use a hip belay, dulfersitz rappel belay, or fireman belay.

Failure to follow the proper protocol will result in losing your license to spray at Miguel's.

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:07 pm
by Uncle Big Green
pigsteak wrote:For example, I used my ATC one time last year in 120+ days of climbing...
so I gotta ask, did you use Wes' g-g rapelling methods all those other times you didn't use your atc?

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:09 pm
by MiaRock
UBG have you been gone too long? we have sport climbing here in the red now...

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:10 pm
by pigsteak
UBG,

I logged only 3 days of trad climbing last year....on my single pitch sport days, only a gri gri is needed to get off routes. on multipitch trad, a gri gri and an ATC are nice...

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:22 pm
by Uncle Big Green
pigsteak wrote:UBG,

I logged only 3 days of trad climbing last year....on my single pitch sport days, only a gri gri is needed to get off routes. on multipitch trad, a gri gri and an ATC are nice...
I was just trying to get some clarification, which is why I asked if you rapped w/ your g-g to get off of the sport routes. still not clear.

Mia, the last time I went to the Red (nov) I did nothing but sport routes. I even onsighted a my trad level. I've even been to Pocket Wall back in '96 to mainly clip bolts.

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:27 pm
by MiaRock
i'm mistaken, i was under the impression you were a hardcore traddie that believes...

"sport climbing is neither"

so do you hang out at Sport Park in Boulder now? :wink:

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:30 pm
by pigsteak
gosh, it all depends..... most times, it seemed I wasn't the last person, so I didn't have to clean the draws..or they were project draws, or someone else was getting on the route that day, and was going to clean them....so, no, I don't rap on a gri gri...

don't get me wrong..in our climbing group, someone always has an atc. but for 4 climbers, we do not bring 4 atc's. or 4 gri gri's...

and at the lode, seems like draws always stay put....

its a new day....

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:32 pm
by Uncle Big Green
MiaRock wrote:i'm mistaken, i was under the impression you were a hardcore traddie that believes...

"sport climbing is neither"

so do you hang out at Sport Park in Boulder now? :wink:
haha again. I am a hardcore traddy. I don't have too much of a prob. w/ sport climbing and I lead both at roughly the same level since I don't proj. I bitch when there's a bolt next to a bomber gear placement for lead pro.

I do have a sticker on my truck (I sh!t you not) that says "the sport park is neither." up at the sp, there are chipped holds and bolts next to cracks/bomber gear. the grades are waaay inflated to boot, so my sticker is right-on.

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:38 pm
by MiaRock
i used to live in boulder (pre-climber days) but i know the "egos" out there and can believe that your sticker is dead on the mark...