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climb2core wrote:Ok, for those who climb 13... how hard was the jump from climbing low 12's to 13a? Did you have to change how you trained? How long did it take to transition?

thanks...

Opinion only: Since you are not a pre-teen, you have a family and a real job, and if you don't train, i'd guess you can get a handful of 12c's and a 12d's that suit your style. I agree with Nick. Find a group to train with and it will drastically decrease your learning curve.

good luck, Ian.

JR wrote:I'm awesome!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYws8biwOYc

blakeleathers wrote:

JR wrote:I'm awesome!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYws8biwOYc

Awsum!

Ok, I'll reply to the training/spray thread:

I've always been a REALLY bad redpoint climber. After moving East about three years ago, I had ample climbs at the Red and the New to just onsight/flash, so I did not project much. Had a pretty good spring, despite a pretty bad tendon injury, and decided that it was time to start [s]numbers chasing[/s] serious redpoint projecting. Did a lot of power-endurance training this summer in the sweltering bouldering gym, then moved to hangboard stuff by late August. I'm feeling really strong this season.

However, so far this season, no big projects have gone down yet. I think I've been spreading myself too thin, trying to give equal time to the Red and the New, sport and trad, and balancing out where I want to go versus where my partners want to go. And I'd be lying if I said that I miss masturbatorilly looking at my ascents list and seeing a whole bunch of flashes filling up my recent climbs; I gots nuthin'. Starting to get worried that the season will end before I get anything done.

We'll see how the season winds up; I've gotten really close on my two most engaging projects at the New and the Red (Apollo Reed and WTOK), but no cigar yet.

camhead wrote:Ok, I'll reply to the training/spray thread:

I've always been a REALLY bad redpoint climber. After moving East about three years ago, I had ample climbs at the Red and the New to just onsight/flash, so I did not project much. Had a pretty good spring, despite a pretty bad tendon injury, and decided that it was time to start [s]numbers chasing[/s] serious redpoint projecting. Did a lot of power-endurance training this summer in the sweltering bouldering gym, then moved to hangboard stuff by late August. I'm feeling really strong this season.

However, so far this season, no big projects have gone down yet. I think I've been spreading myself too thin, trying to give equal time to the Red and the New, sport and trad, and balancing out where I want to go versus where my partners want to go. And I'd be lying if I said that I miss masturbatorilly looking at my ascents list and seeing a whole bunch of flashes filling up my recent climbs; I gots nuthin'. Starting to get worried that the season will end before I get anything done.

We'll see how the season winds up; I've gotten really close on my two most engaging projects at the New and the Red (Apollo Reed and WTOK), but no cigar yet.

This would make a great question for Kris Hampton(Odub or 512OW) over at http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ .

Your instinct is probably right camhead. You kinda stink at redpointing. With the info you gave a couple of things come to mind.

1 Tactics-Maybe your tactics could use refining.(PM me if you want to discuss this further)
2 Maybe your projects are too hard for you to Redpoint in the time allotted(basically I am restating what you already said). You put yourself in a position half way between doing what your good at (onsighting) and focusing on a redpoint.


Great post though. I do get the feeling that you are on the right track to improving your climbing! You are working on your weakness.

I

I fall into catagory 2. I tend to pick routes outside of my reach. Easy to get a one fall, but hard to seal the deal. Most of my upper sends are 20+ tries.

One-Fall wrote:Opinion only: Since you are not a pre-teen, you have a family and a real job, and if you don't train, i'd guess you can get a handful of 12c's and a 12d's that suit your style. I agree with Nick. Find a group to train with and it will drastically decrease your learning curve.

good luck, Ian.

Thanks for responses. Going to be fun trying.

climb2core wrote:Ok, for those who climb 13... how hard was the jump from climbing low 12's to 13a? Did you have to change how you trained? How long did it take to transition?

thanks...

I personally have never seen anyone jump from low 12 to 13a. The climbers that I see really pushing eek out a letter grade a year improvement.

JR wrote:I personally have never seen anyone jump from low 12 to 13a. The climbers that I see really pushing eek out a letter grade a year improvement.

Well, I hope I can prove you wrong. I went from not climbing in a decade in the middle of March, to sending 12a in 6 months. I think it is realistic to be doing hard 12's by spring and then hit that elusive 13a by end fall. Not saying I am expecting I will be a solid 13 climber by then, just able to project one and get it. Then hopefully get solid at the grade over the next year...

But your comments are good... will make me work that much harder.

Found this article about a guy deciding to climb 5.12. I think most of what he says applies to climbing 5.13... It has to start with the belief and desire, then follow that up with hard work and desire. If you view 5.13 as some super-hard elusive grade for the semi-pros, then it will be. Not saying it will be easy. Going to take a year of hard work and dedication (as much as a father of two and business owner can dedicate) But I believe

http://blog.thaczuk.com/?p=124

As the snow flies, it seems appropriate now to ask the question again....


JR was absolutely right for me. I had wanted to be able to send a 13 by end of fall, but wasn't even in the ballpark. However, I have progressed in that 12- are now falling every time I go out and I am optimistic for this year. How was your season?