RRC Archives

louisville_climber wrote:There was a guy at BuriseBrothers on Rising, the 11a roof pitch above CH4. He decided to skip both the roof bolt, AND the second bolt because they were glue ins and he "wasn't sure if they were good or not." He took a leader fall clipping the third bolt, fell approximately 40 feet, and hit the wall around the first bolt on the 7.

am i missing something here?

makes sense to me (the explanation, not the action). dude clipped three bolts, decided to skip the next two bolts, and fell going for the fifth. fell to around the first bolt (nearly a deck and I'm sure one hell of a whip)

pigsteak wrote:crescent wrench will do the trick on the majority of rusty quicklinks...

My bad. I had heard that even non-rusty links are sometimes hard to unscrew if they've been loaded. I just figured the rust would compound the issue.

DHB wrote:makes sense to me (the explanation, not the action). dude clipped three bolts, decided to skip the next two bolts, and fell going for the fifth. fell to around the first bolt (nearly a deck and I'm sure one hell of a whip)

correct.

i've been really surprised at the number of and specific people who say to lower and to not rappel. maybe all these strong climbers never get on a route that is vertical enough to reasonably clean on rappel. rappelling is a basic skill, every climber who can belay should know how to do it. doing it safely isn't any harder than belaying. knowing how to rappel will only I personally don't rappel that much because most of the time i'm climbing on steep sport routes. I rarely tie knots because i can see the rope is down. all these "tie knots in the end of your ropes or your an idiot" comments are good intentioned but by this logic everyone should keep a knot in the end of your rope when belaying which i guess almost no one does around here.

After reading 5 pages of dumbshit comments I realize why there's so many accidents out there.

+1

ahab wrote:am i missing something here?

Jeff wrote:Must be October.

Andrew wrote:no they don't understand that.

cliftongifford wrote:After reading 5 pages of dumbshit comments I realize why there's so many accidents out there.

best post yet.

Just an idea for replacing worn biners, chains, etc...

How about we work with Miguels to start a "Want to donate a $1 to $5 to the RRGCC or Teamsuck to replace worn chains, etc." I know I can be lazy and not step up to do my share, while enjoying the privileges of climbing in such an amazing place. However, if I was asked every time I ordered a pie from Miguels, I am pretty sure I would say sure...

I also like the idea of carrying a few extra quick-links or biners to donate to a route and will start making it a standard practice to do so.

Lastly,
I have learned something from each accident that has occurred from the dialogue that has occurred on this forum. People will make mistakes as long as we are, well people... Just try take something away from these events that will make you and the people you climb around a little safer.