Saturday's Accident at PMRP

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ahab
Posts: 1024
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:36 pm

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by ahab »

louisville_climber wrote:There was a guy at BuriseBrothers on Rising, the 11a roof pitch above CH4. He decided to skip both the roof bolt, AND the second bolt because they were glue ins and he "wasn't sure if they were good or not." He took a leader fall clipping the third bolt, fell approximately 40 feet, and hit the wall around the first bolt on the 7.
am i missing something here?
buy the Ticket take the Ride
DHB
Posts: 170
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:55 pm

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by DHB »

makes sense to me (the explanation, not the action). dude clipped three bolts, decided to skip the next two bolts, and fell going for the fifth. fell to around the first bolt (nearly a deck and I'm sure one hell of a whip)
DHB
Posts: 170
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:55 pm

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by DHB »

pigsteak wrote:crescent wrench will do the trick on the majority of rusty quicklinks...
My bad. I had heard that even non-rusty links are sometimes hard to unscrew if they've been loaded. I just figured the rust would compound the issue.
louisville_climber
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:15 pm

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by louisville_climber »

DHB wrote:makes sense to me (the explanation, not the action). dude clipped three bolts, decided to skip the next two bolts, and fell going for the fifth. fell to around the first bolt (nearly a deck and I'm sure one hell of a whip)
correct.
"because it's there." -George Leigh Mallory
pawilkes
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:45 am

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by pawilkes »

i've been really surprised at the number of and specific people who say to lower and to not rappel. maybe all these strong climbers never get on a route that is vertical enough to reasonably clean on rappel. rappelling is a basic skill, every climber who can belay should know how to do it. doing it safely isn't any harder than belaying. knowing how to rappel will only I personally don't rappel that much because most of the time i'm climbing on steep sport routes. I rarely tie knots because i can see the rope is down. all these "tie knots in the end of your ropes or your an idiot" comments are good intentioned but by this logic everyone should keep a knot in the end of your rope when belaying which i guess almost no one does around here.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
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cliftongifford
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:57 am

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by cliftongifford »

After reading 5 pages of dumbshit comments I realize why there's so many accidents out there.
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krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by krampus »

+1
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
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clif
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:24 pm

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by clif »

ahab wrote:am i missing something here?
Jeff wrote:Must be October.
Andrew wrote:no they don't understand that.
training is for people who care, i have a job.
toad857
Posts: 1691
Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:31 pm

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by toad857 »

cliftongifford wrote:After reading 5 pages of dumbshit comments I realize why there's so many accidents out there.
best post yet.
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climb2core
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

Post by climb2core »

Just an idea for replacing worn biners, chains, etc...

How about we work with Miguels to start a "Want to donate a $1 to $5 to the RRGCC or Teamsuck to replace worn chains, etc." I know I can be lazy and not step up to do my share, while enjoying the privileges of climbing in such an amazing place. However, if I was asked every time I ordered a pie from Miguels, I am pretty sure I would say sure...

I also like the idea of carrying a few extra quick-links or biners to donate to a route and will start making it a standard practice to do so.

Lastly,
I have learned something from each accident that has occurred from the dialogue that has occurred on this forum. People will make mistakes as long as we are, well people... Just try take something away from these events that will make you and the people you climb around a little safer.
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