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Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 12:54 am
by dustonian
Hm, that's too bad. Abrasive ropes definitely don't take long to wear grooves in steel. The reality is that most people lower off fixed anchors to clean routes when they're done, even if they're toproping off their own gear beforehand, especially on steeper routes. Could you add removable hardware like quicklinks and chain to these anchors so you can keep the eyebolt pristine?
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:45 am
by ynp1
yes
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 2:12 am
by Clevis Hitch
I think the way to stop people from lowering off of anchors is to use the big rqp rings. I think Metolious makes them. You can lower off of them if you want but you'll end up with a rope that looks like a pig-tail!
One more thing about the Titan-Hd's. You can not use the glue on bolts that you think you might move and They're good. You just gotta keep an eye on them to make sure they don't back out. Once you judge it as established then you can glue it or move it.
I talked to them today and the engineers said that they couldn't make them out of SS because the end of the bolt is heat treated so that it will cut.
I think one of these guys will last at least 20 years before it needs inspecting. The reason why is because the shaft of the bolt will be encapsulated in epoxy and wont ever be exposed to moisture.
If you want to shear one off all you gotta do is get a great big cheater and pull like hell!

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 12:19 pm
by Crankmas
gear queers
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 2:05 pm
by Redpoint
I agree with Crankmas, if you want people to stop lowering off, just go with some Gear-Queers®.