RRC Archives

I'll be your Funkadelic Huckleberry

OK, but if the project is only partially funded lets prioritize and go ahead with what can be done given resources available. Let's set a time line, a date, and plan to mobilize personnel and material. We can have another crack at it at a later date if need be. And need there will be.

Appreciate all the offers of help and it is sure welcome. At the risk of bogging down the thread, right now Matt and I are working out the details of what all is needed and a goal $ amount.
Once that info is together we will proceed from there and start posting work dates/requests for help.
This will happen.

I suppose that we won't be able to add anchors to Up Swift Creek, or Goodshone then. If no one objects then please send me a pm with the rout you want to commit to. If you can't do a whole rout try to find a friend to join with you. I will post updates on what is left, after we have a few I will talk to Jeff about getting the money together and this thing rolling. Based on Ricks post lets consider the total cost to be $7 a bolt (this includes bolt, glue, taxes, shipping ect.). If there is anything left over it will be donated to RRGCC or Team Suck (probably Team Suck as this is a bolting extravaganza). It would be nice to know whats going to happen within a week or two so please don't be shy.

weber wrote:
But, as for bailing at an en-route bolt, we just hope that won't be a frequent, and therefore, significant wear factor.

Maybe a semi-fixed bail biner below known cruxes? I don't know, something hard to remove while hangdogging a route but easy to remove with the proper tools (ie: wrench, hacksaw).

That might mitigate the long term wear, but its going to be more cost and freak out people who can't deal with a fixed biner mid-route.

Of course education is key, maybe a prominent caveat in this guide and any future printed guides for the FRC area and any that use glue-ins about the dangers of lowering directly off the bolt would be helpful.

aktion: delete

caribe wrote:

weber wrote:$4 per 8mm x 4 3/4 Titt bolt from Jim Taylor. That's the bigger one that we could not get to fail in pull tests

Rick I was hoping you would comment. These are timeless stainless steel right?

Timeless? Gee, that's a long time.

These are 304 Stainless Steel, passivated to minimize what little corrosion might develop. I've never seen even a stain of corrosion on the ones we've installed.

For those fascinated by anal details (i.e. engineers and Caribe) there's a ton of info here, including how to install these bolts properly:

http://bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

I have never installed a bolt, and given my general experience with drills (they usually spin me around, instead of the other way...) I am not a likely candidate for replacing the bolts.

But I will adopt "Go Easy Billy Clyde". I was on it last year and hated the mess at the anchors, but this being single-pitch sport climbing, I didn't have either extra slings, or a knife to cut off the old webbing and replace it.

if needed, I'll pick a second route, too.

How is money being collected? Who, when, etc...

Any other help that can be offered long-distance?

lena_chita wrote:How is money being collected? Who, when, etc...

Krampus is stepping up. I PM'ed him a $ amount pledge of support.

RRO wrote:We are contacting some companies for some hand drills and anchor set ups. We have talked about this for years. Lets get it done this time.

Thanks Matt & Jeff for taking the leadership on this. I will do what I can to assist. Since it sounds like we will have a large organized group of people out there at one time I will handle coordination with the Forest Service (Clifty Wilderness Prescription Area, 2.A-REC-8. Until the Limits of Acceptable Change process is completed, limit the size of groups to no more than 10 people. Groups over 10 may be allowed only under permit on a case-by-case basis when compatible with Wilderness management objectives.).

Have spent some time checking out the bolt products site. What do people think about their "Monster Hook" top anchor? http://www.bolt-products.com./SinglePointLower-offs.htm