Spraylord Wanted

Post by **rjackson** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:57 pm

So somebody needs to go send it and spray! And if you go and get shut down, let's hear about that too!

Post by **camhead** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:06 pm

rjackson wrote:So somebody needs to go send it and spray! And if you go and get shut down, let's hear about that too!

it looks like a cool line, but for some weird reason, the RRG always makes me want to leave my rack in the car and go climb steep bolted routes. I wonder why that is?

Post by **Wes** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:16 pm

Do you need your name in the guide book that badly? I mean, really? Cool, you put anchors and cleaned up a trad line. That is cool. That does not equal FA/equipped by, or any of that stuff. Send it, then get your name in the book.

By, that logic, I should have just named all the stuff from the inner circle all the way around to what about bob, etc, you know, since I saw it first. Well, except that I kinda missed Amarillo sunset due to extreme nettle issues.

rjackson wrote:We all agreed to disagree.

And I'd love to see someone get on it.

We did the FA - in the 'approved' ground up style. I still contend, until I get my official rule book, that FFAs are reserved for previous climbed routes that 'required' aiding (pulling on gear) to get through, before new technology and tools made it possible.

Post by **rjackson** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:40 pm

Wes wrote:Do you need your name in the guide book that badly? I mean, really? Cool, you put anchors and cleaned up a trad line. That is cool. That does not equal FA/equipped by, or any of that stuff. Send it, then get your name in the book.

By, that logic, I should have just named all the stuff from the inner circle all the way around to what about bob, etc, you know, since I saw it first. Well, except that I kinda missed Amarillo sunset due to extreme nettle issues.

rjackson wrote:We all agreed to disagree.

And I'd love to see someone get on it.

We did the FA - in the 'approved' ground up style. I still contend, until I get my official rule book, that FFAs are reserved for previous climbed routes that 'required' aiding (pulling on gear) to get through, before new technology and tools made it possible.

If my name is on it, cool. If it's not, that's cool too. It's there for everyone. And I'll continue to look and develop and establish routes that are within my ability. That's the fun part.

But by the same token I'd like to know what the rules are to the game - especially as it pertains to trad and gear. I could have thrown a bolt on it just to hold the red biner, right? Called it a mixed line until I sent.

So now, we (Christian and I) have the FA until such time that someone gets the FFA (red point), which Ray has said 'trumps' FA in the Red River Gorge. This is getting more confusing than playing Bridge with my Mother-In-Law!

Ray - So since we have FA'd it and named it, does the name stick or does the dude with the trump get to change suits?

Post by **camhead** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:45 pm

rjackson wrote:
Ray - So since we have FA'd it and named it, does the name stick or does the dude with the trump get to change suits?

I'm not Ray, but here are the official rules: if Dean Potter gets the FFA, your name will get thrown out in favor of some "edgy" tag like "Epitaph," "ConcepciÃ³n," or "Lightning Ball Sweat."

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:13 pm

ha, I knew I spotted Amarillo Sunset first.

does anyone know the real history of Charlie out there? Did all those guys send placing the gear? Did any send placing gear? Was the first bolt stick clipped? If someone goes out and send it placing gear, does that erase those FA's? Or even in trad climbing, has the actual skill of placing gear been lost?

btw, trust me, rjackson is hardly a glory whore for his name in a guidebook...I think he believes, however misled he may be, that they indeed did the FA. (I am the glory whore)

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:46 pm

Russ, I think I'd probably remove you guys from the list and just add the person who freed it in this case. I'm not sure but I think I did the same for Welcome to Ol' Kentuck (or John did), Shelter from the Storm, and that thing at The Gallery. I think my rule (which I'll make up right now) is if it gets into one of the print editions as an aid line then I'll leave the FA party in subsequent guidebooks and add on the FFA party beneath them. Then eventually I'll fade out the FA party (I think I did this with The Quest) quietly so the FA party doesn't notice (sorry Larry). I'll probably do the same for Armageddon (sorry Hugh) and Hugh probably won't notice because I'll wait long enough for him to forget (due to Alzheimer's). Does that make sense?

Piggy, Charlie was done on pre-placed gear by people well capable of placing it themselves. It was a bitch to continue cleaning it so they just left it plugged in. They all did it in a matter of an afternoon for fun and won't give a shit when I make a note in the guidebook that it was done on pre-placed gear. Throughout history it has been noted in the climbing mags and guidebooks when something is done on pre-placed gear and when someone comes along and does it proper the original person's name is usually left in the dust after some time.

Post by **rjackson** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:11 am

Makes sense. And I appreciate you taking the time to make up a rule. (So, going to press next week?!)

One good thing is I'm just barely closer to sending than I am to Alzheimers, so it will be a race for sure.

Hey, anybody know where I put my glasses? Or my drill?

Post by **krampus** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:47 pm

god damn people, the line looks bad ass, name in a book great, I was glad to see it open or at least equiped. Who wants to get thrashed this weekend? Saturday preferably cus I might not be able to climb sunday too.

Post by **rjackson** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 2:29 pm

I'm hoping to be there... and getting at least one run. Maybe two or three if there are volunteers to second/clean it.