Best 11c

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:53 pm

dude, I can juggle..I'll take ya on.

Post by JB » Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:21 pm

Electric Cowboy

Post by **Green3** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:46 am

So the first post does say RRG, but Anti, I'm with you... Scenic Adult is one of the best climbs of any grade that I've been on. It's got all the factors that make up a mega-classic, plus the "will scare the living shit out of you" bonus.

Post by **gripster** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:15 pm

i need to hone up on my juggling skills then, and my free style rap.

Post by **gripster** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:44 pm

Wes wrote:
gripster wrote:I still think you would flail and whine like a baby.
Um, no, probably not. But, I am sure you would whine like a baby on his warmups, that is if you could get past the first bolt. Maybe you should challenge him to a climb off, you know, like for money and stuff.

Wes I remembered a story I thought I would share with you. A good friend of mine and long time RRG climber who has onsited multiple 5.12's all throughout the gorge went on a little trip with me to looking glass. Being my first trip there as well, we decided to warm up on a 5.9 route called Sensimilla Sunrise. Now I would like to point out that it had been no longer than two weeks since we had last been in the gorge, and my friend (who's name I will not disclose, but many of you probably know him as an x-employee of Miguel's) had climbed several 5.12's.

He had some real life affirming moments that day. The route was a trad climb, but that wasn't the major issue. The guy could not climb friction slab because he simply didn't know how. Slab climbing is similar to crack climbing in that it is a very specific style that takes time and effort to master. He struggled the entire 150' of the first pitch, and then stupidly enough decided to take on the second pitch, where he truly thought he was going to die or at least be seriously hurt. The climb was a little ran out and our rack was less than adequate.

Our situation quickly got worse when one of our 2 ropes got stuck at the anchors of the second pitch. No we didn't do anything stupid like leave a knot in the end of the rope, it just got stuck. So we had to tie off on the anchor and single line rappel to the ground abandoning both of our ropes on the wall.

We came back early the next morning set out on a rescue operation. My friend this time started up a 5.8 pitch with hopes of traversing to the anchors of the climb with the stuck rope. He made it about 40' and got to a spot where he refused to move. Luckily a couple of old dudes (one of them i found out later was none other than Steve Longnecker who put up several of the slab routes at looking glass) came along and saved his ass.

I don't know how hard Rusty climbs, but my point is that there is a big difference between overhanging red river routes and other types of climbing such as friction slab in this case and cracks! I hate friction slab by the way, but have since came to terms with it. So unless rusty has mastered crack climbing then he should stop talking shit about how beneath him it is. So rusty can you climb cracks or not? If so, i will leave you alone, well at least on this issue.

Sorry for the long post, but i like telling this story, brings back good memories.

Post by **anticlmber** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 9:05 pm

once again......rusty ain't got no worries.

you on his warm-ups(overhang, slab, crack, online Bs'n) have your work cut out for you.

also you say your "friend" (code for YOU) has onsited multiple 12s throughout the gorge, (is one area different than the other?) and a sentence later he "had climbed several 12s."

soooo..... which is it i ask?? for the sake of how far he might have been in over his head. i mean a few 12s = yeah over his head. onsited multiple 12s, (throughout the gorge no less) = over his head.

also Rustysack never said he doesn't crackflail, he justs finds it retarded. like getting TWO ropes stuck.....on a slab.

Post by **rustyvasectomy** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 10:05 pm

gripster wrote: So rusty can you climb cracks or not? If so, i will leave you alone, well at least on this issue.

Hey! This forum is not a dick measuring contest!. Its a way to make fun of things on the world wide Internet with little to no consequence. Damn it!!!

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 12:51 am

Gripster, that was the dumbest story ever. I am don't think rusty even climbs 12's for warmups, they are too easy, but he is a dick, so it evens out.

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 12:52 am

Did I forget to say he is a midget?

Post by **bcombs** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:50 am

Gripster, maybe he flailed on purpose because he is your friend and wanted to make sure you didn't feel like such a chuffer?