RRC Archives

Adventure climbing at the red is going to one of the many over crowded cliffs and dealing with all the ego's, gumbies, and dogs. Nevermore sound like a nice quiet half day at the cliff.

ahab wrote:

Wes wrote:PS, where is the tradie sense of outrage over the new hardware that totally ruined the route? Make a statement and chop all the bolts and do it on gear, as should have been done to begin with! Then you can earn that R rating....

didn't it have old 1/4 inch studs on the runout part? so, were those replaced with new bolts/hangers? who sunk in the original bolts?

Yes, had old bolts. Pretty much for no reason. There was practically a ladder of them there, and no need for a single one. Pansy ass trad climbers...

Yes, new bolts. Someone with a drill and no sense.

rhunt wrote:Adventure climbing at the red is going to one of the many over crowded cliffs and dealing with all the ego's, gumbies, and dogs. Nevermore sound like a nice quiet half day at the cliff.

I used to say the same shit. Now, even though I've been sport climbing for nearly 3 years, I have yet to see an overcrowded cliff... except under Rock Wars, Roadside Attraction or Arachnid.

I guess it all depends on your comfort level, what cliffs you are spending time at and how you define overcrowded.

512OW wrote:Captain, if you called it trad climbing back then, you were a gumby. Back then, it was just climbing.

Yeah, I remembered that after I posted. I'm so used to making the distinction now that I forgot it was just climbing back then

[quote="cliftongifford"]
Hey, if you're doing Nevermore, you're doing it with me pal.[/quote]I don't think I want to lead it, but I'd sure as hell second...[/quote]

Good luck finding a partner for it if you dont even want to lead it.
Ive done it, and I echo what Was said in his early posts - choss pitch to a sport pitch to an ok pitch.

512OW wrote:

ahab wrote:

Wes wrote:PS, where is the tradie sense of outrage over the new hardware that totally ruined the route? Make a statement and chop all the bolts and do it on gear, as should have been done to begin with! Then you can earn that R rating....

didn't it have old 1/4 inch studs on the runout part? so, were those replaced with new bolts/hangers? who sunk in the original bolts?

Yes, had old bolts. Pretty much for no reason. There was practically a ladder of them there, and no need for a single one. Pansy ass trad climbers...

Yes, new bolts. Someone with a drill and no sense.

after climbing it last saturday, i have to agree with wes & ow...partially.
the bolts should not be there. it looks worse than the anchors of "to defy the laws" up there and there's no reason for it. you can get good pro just before and right after the crux. it seemed like the falls would be clean even if you fell out, sans clipped bolts.

as far as being a waste of time. hardly. i thought it was great.

I agree with Ahab 4 stars is dead on. A good day's adventure. Also agree with bolts not needing to be there. You get bomber pro right before the crux and right after. As far as the R rating, do not believe it is that runout. Definately more runout climbs in the red than this thing.

I liked it. Did it about a yr. ago. I think the last pitch is a bit freaky. It was a great view. It was worth the hike if you are into a relaxed day and enjoying the company.

I know a lot of people think it's a cool route, and that is fine. But to me, unless you have done all the other good routes, this one is a waste of time. I did it once, and have no desire to do it again, esp. with the new hardware.

Hey Wes, Why is it you want to talk like your the Nevermore guru, when you about shit your pants as you FOLLOWED Q up this route. Then talked shit for days!