Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...

Post by **512OW** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:51 am

I knew I liked you for a reason Piggie.

Post by **Brentucky** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:01 am

hahahaha! damn pig, i was spitting shit out of my nose that i wasn't even drinking!

what is it about the holidays that brings out my potty mouth anyway? btw, if i am lame and unlucky enough not to be climbing tuesday afternoon can i be humbled in your presence?

Post by **512OW** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:36 am

woodchuck008 wrote: Geez, I'm glad I don't climb with such immature and insecure people as the trad' haters who are posting up here lately.

See woodie, its not that I hate trad. Its quite the opposite. I love trad. Its why I sport climb. Its why I boulder. Its why I train my ass off in the gym. And it just pains me to see all these pansy ass "trad" climbers use the word "trad" as an excuse for sucking. 5.11 trad = 5.11 sport = V2 = Easy. And yes, its ok to suck. Have fun! Suck all you want! Just don't say its because "trad" is harder than sport.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:39 am

L Day wrote: Shit, Oh-Dub's just fun'n with you. One of my favorite personalities of the past was Oh-Dub, the Arrogant Assed Traddie. Superceded as of late by Oh-Dub, the Arrogant Assed Sportie. It's all just a bunch of fun. In fact, I had to check the date, to make sure this wasn't the first of April already.

Larry, I'd still be that guy if it weren't for the people described in the post above.

Post by **mcrib** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:57 am

Not that I disagree but there are plenty of badass climbers moving into the realm of trad but you don't see them putting up 5.15 trad routes.

Post by **elcapitan1974** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:04 am

512OW wrote:
woodchuck008 wrote: Geez, I'm glad I don't climb with such immature and insecure people as the trad' haters who are posting up here lately.

See woodie, its not that I hate trad. Its quite the opposite. I love trad. Its why I sport climb. Its why I boulder. Its why I train my ass off in the gym. And it just pains me to see all these pansy ass "trad" climbers use the word "trad" as an excuse for sucking. 5.11 trad = 5.11 sport = V2 = Easy. And yes, its ok to suck. Have fun! Suck all you want! Just don't say its because "trad" is harder than sport.

OW, I am starting to see your points! We may have different reasons for climbing, but ultimately we all want to get better. Thanks for the motivational slam. By the way, I tried racking my gear on my harness and not my gear sling the last few climbs. It allowed me to move much faster. Appresh Larry D and OW.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:11 am

mcrib wrote:Not that I disagree but there are plenty of badass climbers moving into the realm of trad but you don't see them putting up 5.15 trad routes.

We sorta already discussed this. Its because they are much harder to find than hard sport climbs. Most 5.15's wouldn't accept enough gear to hold any sort of falls. Cracks can only get so thin before they're left unclimbable. It'll happen, I imagine, but unlike a sport route, you can't just slam bolts in some pretty blank face and wait for Chris Sharma...

Post by **bcombs** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:17 pm

512OW wrote:...It'll happen, I imagine, but unlike a sport route, you can't just slam bolts in some pretty blank face and wait for Chris Sharma...

Just out of curiosity, how many 5.14 and up (or at least the equivalent to 5.14) aid routes are there? Maybe the hard ass traddies can go back through the list and free those? Didn't most of the "hard" routes on El Cap start out as aid routes? It's sort of the equivalent to your Sharma analogy. Establish it as aid and then wait for the next trad superstar to come free it.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:29 pm

Theres no way to know. A3 could easily become 5.10... or 5.13. Its impossible to tell, as one number doesn't have a thing to do with the other.

Yes, most of the hard routes on El Cap started as aid routes. And technically, any route that is ascended, but not freely, is aid, so every route that isn't FA'd via onsight begins its existence as an aid line...

There are still "5.14" cracks waiting for ascents. Todd Skinner had a list he believed to be of that difficulty. I know of one in the Red that I believe would be the US answer to the Cobra Crack, but its on private property...

Post by **elcapitan1974** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:46 pm

How long did it take Cobra crack to be freed? Years from what Ive read, and only freed in the last few years. 14a I believe is the rating. How long does it take a 14a sport route to be freed after bolted?