I'm a 5.x Climber!

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed May 14, 2003 11:59 pm

i think this thread boils down to spraying.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu May 15, 2003 12:12 am

chester wrote:SCIN repellent

the irony!

Post by **chester** » Thu May 15, 2003 1:13 am

i typed in something totally different....but what i typed in is a scin repellent....

Post by **merrick** » Thu May 15, 2003 2:01 am

i find myself thinking about these issues all the time. where i am in climbing there is a big distiction between bouldering, sport, and trad. and between trad cragging and multi-pitch, aid and ice. I very much rate myself as a Vx boulder, a 5.x sport climber, and a 5.x trad climber. but that is becuase I have such distinctions in my head about them. I am in a very different headspace in the different disciplines.

for me, when i am bouldering it is simple and sweet. it is all about learning and pushing. it is almost mindless. an endless quest for tension. i think i prefer it to other forms.

when i am sport climbing I sometimes have to remind myself to look at hard moves like a boulder problem otherwise I climb without technique. sport climbing requires a very different mindset from me. i am much more concerned with pacing myself, resting, clipping, and the route as a whole.

trad is also a different mindset, i am always thinking about stances and gear and looking ahead for placements and not really thinking much about the physical climbing. but that is definately becuase I am not climbing hard trad lines. i figure that will come with time.

so while i see where scin is coming from and i understand what he means it doesn't work for how i evaluate myself.

Post by **bberlier** » Thu May 15, 2003 3:32 am

If if your just clippin, then its all for show

Should we underline "just", then I get it. But otherwise its still a sport versus trad thing and you are only contradicting yourself in your later posts. I take it your back pedal line gives you options.

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 15, 2003 5:02 am

Jack should develop a new objective metric based on the online ticklist. That way we can just use our number, say from 0 to 100, to spray like all getout.

Really though, it would be cool if the tick list had a flash category.

Post by **Jack** » Thu May 15, 2003 5:11 am

We're working on a "notes" section for climbs. Unless there is strong support, I didn't really want to break down the spray any further. Some sites *do* have a point system, where 5.8-flash = 5.9, etc. I kinda thought it was gay, but it might just be happy.

Basically when Zemkat and I sat down and planned the spray thing we realised two things: we didn't know a damn thing about climbing, and we weren't gonna be getting any onsight pinkpoint betaflashes any time soon. So we broke it down into the two categories we understood, lead and top-rope.

The notes section was gonna let you be more specific. Like I'm gonna add a note on Father and Son about not trying to clean stoppers on a stupid dihedral when my calves are cramping, trying to figure out what sort of smearing one-finger layback "stance" zemkat had when she placed this bombproof, nut-tool proof, god my legs are hurting, stopper.

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 15, 2003 5:22 am

Yea, I guess there has to be some limit to the spravity

Post by **Huggybone** » Thu May 15, 2003 1:20 pm

Sorry Brian, I backpedaled because I decided to be considerate rather than be an ass. 'for those who are cranky' replaced 'goddamn, are you dumb?'
Playing nice. Not dirty.

If your ego needs to discuss this further, please PM me.

Post by **Gretchen** » Thu May 15, 2003 1:41 pm

I have to intervene here and say, EGO?? what the f&*K? Ego + Bryan??? Have you met him? I certainly would not use that word in the same sentence as Bryan's name. Humble, yes, Ego, No