RRC Archives

SCIN wrote:

stix wrote:i think the root of this all for me is the old argument of people climbin for the #'s. i'm not convinced that people are "skippin cruxes" cuz they think it's more fun....i think most people do it so they can say they did the route. to them the "fun" is sending the number as opposed to climbing the cleanest movement.

Doesn't make sense to me. So when you are sending your hardest project do you look for ways to shake out, areas to conserve energy, different ways to hold holds, possible knee bars, etc. etc.? If you do then you are just climbing for the number and not the fun. You are digging deep into your bag of tricks to send the line. That is what sending a project at your limit is all about.

i don't think that's what he meant...or maybe he did? anyway, let's say you just sent your hardest 5.x rated rock scramble ever. however, you were never able to do the crux, so instead you did something (insert your favorite way to skip a crux) that completely bypassed the hard bit. now, you tell everyone that you are able to climb 5.x...that is bullshit.

Horatio Felacio wrote:

SCIN wrote:

stix wrote:i think the root of this all for me is the old argument of people climbin for the #'s. i'm not convinced that people are "skippin cruxes" cuz they think it's more fun....i think most people do it so they can say they did the route. to them the "fun" is sending the number as opposed to climbing the cleanest movement.

Doesn't make sense to me. So when you are sending your hardest project do you look for ways to shake out, areas to conserve energy, different ways to hold holds, possible knee bars, etc. etc.? If you do then you are just climbing for the number and not the fun. You are digging deep into your bag of tricks to send the line. That is what sending a project at your limit is all about.

i don't think that's what he meant...or maybe he did? anyway, let's say you just sent your hardest 5.x rated rock scramble ever. however, you were never able to do the crux, so instead you did something (insert your favorite way to skip a crux) that completely bypassed the hard bit. now, you tell everyone that you are able to climb 5.x...that is bullshit.

Yea, that may be a little sketchy for sure. Kind of like wearing a prosthetic penis extension to try to get a job as a porn star.

i climb because it's fun, but i also climb to climb as hard as i can. cleanest movement isn't an excuse to wank it....it's simply what motivates me to try as hard as i can and dig deep to do something. HO explained what i was gettin at pretty well. i feel that when some people skip the crux on a route they're using that as an excuse to climb below their ability level. they're probably capable at doin the route the more engaging way but choose not to do so and simply to tick the grade instead. not all the time, but often. many of the routes mentioned (ale 8, cell block, twinkie) i've done the sequence the easier way when workin the route to check it out before i sent, but was more interested in projecting the route the other way. it kept me psyched and i felt more engaged with the climb.

piggie can one climb for fun and not be weaksauce??? you bolt for fun is that cuz you're scared to aid climb or some B.S logic. it's the same as when someone says the "did such and such route" but what they MEAN is the got on it, not sent it. clarity is what we need. truth with ourselves and towards others.

and not-me don't be scared, you are just as crotchity as me.

anti, only if they bought my latest edition of "Rules, regulations, and spray etiquette to the Red".....

I don't really understand this argument..if folks are "skipping the crux", then that section wasn't the crux...downgrade the route if necessary, but staying on a certain bunch of holds just to make soemthing harder totally doen't make sense....send with the least amount of effort possible. why else shake out, chalk, wear your favorite sticky uber tight shoes, have the draws hung, etc.....those things all make the send easier....and more efficient.

how about from now on we only count on-site, hanging draws, no tick marks, no pre-inspection,(so any route you bolted is off limits piggie(unless bolted blindfolded)) a pair of two sizes too big EBs, swami built, no chalk, AND you have to carry the big yellow moose-killer tri-cam.??

agreed?