RRC Archives

weber wrote:

Lander wrote:
...And while I appreciate Weber letting people climb on his land, I also think he's acting like a control freak with all his rules... Where's Buster when we need him?

Well, you're close, Lander; you just have the words switched. Sometimes, owning this place is more like "freak control." In the beginning we had very few rules and guidelines, relying on common sense and courtesy to carry the day. But, little by little a few irresponsible climbers demonstrated in spades that approach wouldn't work. Just like in society, a handful of miscreants make it necessary to impose rules on the majority who really don't need them.

Liz and I read a lot of complaints on this forum about this nutcase Weber and his onerous rules.

Really now, how many of you have been unduly burdened by overbearing rules here in Muir?

Last year we saw 10,600 visitors enjoy the valley pretty much unencumbered. After reading a lot of whining criticism on this forum and having just spent another Sunday night cleaning up trash and used toiletries left behind, we sometimes wonder if should rethink our decision. But then we remind ourselves that the overwhelming majority of climbers at Muir are courteous, respectful and a joy to have visit.

Rick Weber

Rick, I respect and applaud all you've done and all you've had to put up with. I fully understand why you'd get fed up with the shenanigans of some of the morons that show up. I've seen some ridiculous behavior there myself. When I've been to Muir, I've respected the rules and enjoyed the climbing. I don't wish to be considered an ungrateful lout. You do have to impose rules on the general climbing public, obviously.

But rules about fixed draw replacement? To the point of threatening to remove hangers? I don't understand the need for this kind of threat. As lurkist pointed out, climbers have been policing fixed gear in the madness cave for years without any problems.

As long as you (or someone acting in your stead) are on the routes in question, why not just remove the draws you're so worried about instead of removing the hangers and thus the climbs? Pigs idea of setting a time limit on fixed gear makes a lot of sense. Chopping routes doesn't.

I'm curious what some of the FAs who worked so hard putting up those climbs and asked your permission and followed the rules you set think about this. Are you guys ok with Weber removing your climbs because of something that other people did or didn't do? IMHO, it sucks and it's a complete over-reaction to a minor issue.

kenny, thanks for that bit of wisdom...I had not even factored that into the equation. sounds like a good compromise might be putting steel draws at the top anchors, and one perma draw mid way to clean thru. anyone have an issue with that set up?

pigsteak wrote:kenny, thanks for that bit of wisdom...I had not even factored that into the equation. sounds like a good compromise might be putting steel draws at the top anchors, and one perma draw mid way to clean thru. anyone have an issue with that set up?

i appreciate the wisdom as well kenny. and i appreciate the foresight (and funds) that ray and michelle had for the routes at the surf.

another option: why not use a steel screwgate in the hanger itself, a sewn dogbone, and a stainless steel carabiner on the rope end? it would still be expensive, but would perhaps eliminate some of that rope drag of which allah speaketh...

pigsteak wrote:btw, putting anyone in charge of anything when it comes to climbing is ghey (apologies to my same sex friends of differing tastes).

so I must honorably decline the invite to be the new Sheriff of Muir Valley. I heard the last one was run out of dodge and put out to pasture before his time. I like my valley parking pass too much to ruin it with official work.

kenny, thanks for that bit of wisdom...I had not even factored that into the equation. sounds like a good compromise might be putting steel draws at the top anchors, and one perma draw mid way to clean thru. anyone have an issue with that set up?

Sounded cost effective and logical the first time I read it. Just have to come up with a way to keep the morons that think its booty from taking it.

Take the office Kipp. So what . . . you are not Sheriff. You are coordinator. Let's give this a shot. No one said anything about sheriff.

deleted

allah wrote:Chain Draws on long steep routes creates a lot more rope drag than just a regular draw. I would say leave things like they are and if you run into a route that needs a new biner or draw or chain or bolt or hell even a nice deep 2 finger pocket just let me know i have all that to give, I just vote no agianst the chain idea.

http://www.allah.org/

I can't ignore this guy's advice. So any idea what we can do with 21 steel biners? I think they were expensive. I could make a big G-Unit homey flava flave necklace for nights out on the town in Lexington I guess.

I think you can still use the steel biners... just not chain... right?

I think they will last so put 'em up, I'd be happy to help too.

Rick, every discussion is gonna have an idiot or two who think the rules don't apply to them. Ignore those guys, if possible.