RRC Archives

At least ya tried..

I saw a guy this Sunday ask for slack to clip the third bolt when his belayer noticed an overhand knot that wouldn't pass through his atc. The guy had to down climb unclipping the bolts as he went. When he went back up I saw him take a 15ft fall on slab with his chest at the bolt he had just clipped. I tried to gently talk to the belayer about leaving out that much slack but I was told that he preferred to not feel tension on the rope when he went to clip.

POST!

sport climbing is so 2009...no one clips bolts anymore..all the gumballs are out plugging gear these days...and only have transistor radios for communicating.

cant say I've had any gumby experiences while trad climbing this summer

Last night a guy was climbing on the lead wall at my gym. He got to the second draw and cut both feet, chalked his clipping hand, (why chalk before clipping I will never know), and then clipped. He then proceeded to third draw where he barely clipped and then fell. It was on the easy lead route. He lowered rested, and.... repeated exactly the same thing. I left, but was told he went again and managed to get the rope behind his leg when he fell and he flipped upside down.

Now I am not being a snob and bringing it up because he couldn't do the jug haul. But maybe he ought to save the Cliff Hanger moves until he can at least finish the route.

And unbelievably, I have not had any good outside stories to share this year. But I still have yet to see Caribe outside this fall

krampus wrote:cant say I've had any gumby experiences while trad climbing this summer

Are you sure. Isn't trad climbing inherently a gumby experience

Andrew wrote:

krampus wrote:cant say I've had any gumby experiences while trad climbing this summer

Are you sure. Isn't trad climbing inherently a gumby experience

Maybe when you do it. Joel is hardcore.

lol maybe.

climb2core wrote:Last night a guy was climbing on the lead wall at my gym. He got to the second draw and cut both feet, chalked his clipping hand, (why chalk before clipping I will never know), and then clipped. He then proceeded to third draw where he barely clipped and then fell. It was on the easy lead route. He lowered rested, and.... repeated exactly the same thing. I left, but was told he went again and managed to get the rope behind his leg when he fell and he flipped upside down.

And someone caught it all on video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69MowsWiXf0