The ongoing weekend idiot report

[rockman]

Of course. That it typical double rope technique. But I think stitch plate devices are banned from the Dark Side. Only Jedis and some ewoks can use them.

[Saxman]

Found it interesting the description didn't quite match multiple eyewitness accounts.

[stix]

i watched the accident at the darkside and this account was inaccurate in a number of ways.

[Josephine]

i watched the accident at the darkside and this account was inaccurate in a number of ways.

i hope you write a letter to the editor then.

[cinciclimber2]

When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.

My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.

[Andrew]

When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.

My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.

Are you sure this is the local ethic?

[camhead]

When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.

My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.

Actually, even rapping off of fixed anchors wears them down minutely, which adds up over time at a heavy-use area like the RRG. The local ethic is moving towards the last climber getting to the anchor, unclipping both draws, and throwing himself to the talus 100 feet below. This puts almost no wear on the anchors. You should try it sometime.

[Andrew]

When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.

My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.

Actually, even rapping off of fixed anchors wears them down minutely, which adds up over time at a heavy-use area like the RRG. The local ethic is moving towards the last climber getting to the anchor, unclipping both draws, and throwing himself to the talus 100 feet below. This puts almost no wear on the anchors. You should try it sometime.

Correct

[ReachHigh]

Actually, even rapping off of fixed anchors wears them down minutely, which adds up over time at a heavy-use area like the RRG. The local ethic is moving towards the last climber getting to the anchor, unclipping both draws, and throwing himself to the talus 100 feet below. This puts almost no wear on the anchors. You should try it sometime.

Correct

wrong, doing so would leave pre hung gear. you must solo then deck, or have a member of your party remove the draws then deck at the end of the day.

[stix]

i was contacted by R&I for info before the writeup was put out but returned the call too late. the climber and belayer know they chuffed hard and their quotes are just trying to save a little face. if they or anyone else who feels they need to not chuff so hard they can call RRO and hire me as a guide. i don't care to donate any more of my time to dumbass climbers for free. maybe once march rolls around i'll care enough to write R&I and explain how the belayer didn't take an inch of rope through the device and all the other details. until then i'm on vacation from chuff and get to enjoy the next few months of my life without climbers falling out of the sky, spraying about falling out of the sky, tattling on one another by writing petzl big wigs, complaining about their trips getting ruined, writing local business owners about shit that doesn't concern them, people from the other side of the mississippi telling me how to go about my climbing in my backyard, bitches getting world wide acclaim for onsighting a route that she had beta sprayed to her the whole way for, "do you know who I am?" bullshit, colored tick marks, sucker punches, manufacturing chossy routes, the absurd notion of a global consenus, fucksticks doing backflips off of easy rider and getting their head smashed in (that's a new one their....would love to see them put a positive slant on that bit of stupidity), arguing over who owns what piece of which cliff and where...

once you know the basics, staying off the deck is largely common sense. you either have the self preservation urge or not. reading a write up about a dude falling with clipping slack out at the 2nd isn't gonna change shit. if you can't figure out that if you fall at the 2nd on many routes at the red you may hit the ground then you'll get what's coming