RRC Archives

A redpoint is the conglomeration of an entire rule set.

Do you really think that to redpoint a route you must clip all biners attached to the anchor point? I'm saying no, you shouldn't need to. You should only need to clip a point on the chains. Lots of lines have multiple draws and biners attached to the chains. It's kind of silly to think you need to clip them all to redpoint a line.

"both sets of anchors" implies at least four anchor points, since a set has to be at least two.

so, SCIN, your question of three points is irrelevant.

if a climber is pumped out of their mind and barely sticks (or let's say slaps) the final hold, but clips no anchors, would this also be a redpoint?

I am thinking of heart shaped box, where there is a redpoint crux going to the chains. if one were to just merely jump from the last crimpers out left and tag the chains, that would seem pretty lame to me. but maybe I need to change my ideal, and start jumping.

No way man, you have to clip at least one biner attached to the anchors. I can think of quite a few lines where clipping the chains in is the crux. Harvest comes to mind. Heart Shaped like you said. You have to show control. Just like a bouldering comp. You have to show control to prove that you've tamed the beast.

Both Ale8 and Chainsaw have relatively difficult clips at the anchors, too. I agree that it's part of the climb.

Everyone has there own rules. Here's mine. We're climbers not clippers. I'd count the redpoint if you bailed after slapping the chains, hell I'd give it to you if you toproped it. But I reserve the right to talk shit about it. That way I get to look generous while still implying you cheated. Maybe there should be a special term for slapping the chains and bailing....Asspoint?

if you core shot your rope THAT counts.

i'm fine with one but when i get to the anchors i'm jazzed enough to clip both. falling is kinda lame at that point.

It's redpointed when I add it to my spray list

ynot, it ain't redpointed til the pigsteak rule book says it is.

all this "clip one, slap, jump" BS is just the weak sauce rising to the top. there's two....clip em both.

I bet I place more than two and clip all 4 or 5

Next route I bolt I am putting 12 bolts for the anchors and have a crappy crimp to clip off of. That way you have to clip all twelve to send.