Bad Lead Falls

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Should bad lead fall information be made available in the online guidebook?

You may select 1 option

33
79%
9
21%
 
Total votes: 42
 

Rain Man
Posts: 450
Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 2:45 pm

Post by Rain Man »

I'm just sayin'....when James missed that deadpoint on Infectious you and he could have played cards almost. :D ...and I'm 50 lbs heavier than James. :shock: It would be like a counterweight on an elevator..."Going up!" :) I'm psyched about trying out the new gear, though, so I guess we'll find out soon enough. :mrgreen:
"I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself."
D. H. Lawrence
SikMonkey
Posts: 1462
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 3:35 am

Post by SikMonkey »

Oh yeah, I know what you mean. I didn't even jump when he fell either. I just tried to duck to the side to avoid wearing him as a hat.

Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?
Johnny
Posts: 580
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 9:28 pm

Post by Johnny »

I like the "would you tell a good friend" standard Ray. That makes good sense.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Maybe just add a "beta" section that could be turned on/off. Then you could add things like "watch out on the third clip" or "hang a long draw from the forth bolt", as well as "look of hidden undercling at the crux".

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you get killed it's not because anyone forced you to climb any particular route but because you chose to get on it. If you make a poor judgement (JUDGEMENT) then that's just natural selection hard at work. Sounds harsh I know, but sometimes in climbing you need to make the RIGHT decision over the DEAD decision and if you never get to make those decisions early on when it may not be fatal but only harmful then when it really counts you'll be lacking crucial climbing skills. We all have to learn for ourselves what is more dangerous and what is less dangerous. No one can do that for you.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
tomdarch
Posts: 2407
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 9:22 pm

Post by tomdarch »

I'm all for saftey beta! I don't sport climb to risk my health/life, I sport climb for fun. Wierd/inobvious fall potential takes the fun out of things! A toggleable Beta section in the guidebook/spray section sounds like a great idea.

Also, I want to agree with the person who commented on the bolting style for a lot of the easier climbs. Ideally the draw should be around your face or chest when you've got "the clipping hold." Part of the issue is to teach new climbers to look for a hold above the bolt and to not pull two arms lengths of rope out at ever clip.

(On the other hand, on a lot of the easier climbs there are several possible candidates for "the clipping hold." I know! We need to paint a big red circle around "the clipping hold" on easier routes! And add an "R" or "L" for which hand to put on it when clipping! It's the only way to be safe! :lol: )
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