One who stick clips up a route is bound to be on it for a long time. If everyone doesn't mind someone taking a popular route all day then by all means go ahead. Sticky clippy away. I still say a little is good just don't go overboard. You might go blind.
I bet if people just "let it happen" we would have a sweet 5.10 right up the middle of El Cap. Maybe that is a bad example because I think they do use stick clips to get up that thing. O well Evolve away. Just about every thing I thought was bad style is now my style so F*** it.
the 5.10 up the middle of El Cap was proposed by mr hang-dog himself years ago, just bolt on a few climbing holds and there you go. he was a little a head of the evolutionary pace but it'll happen.
Oh and TradMike thanks for bringing up a whole new "ethic/style" debate. So if its all about me and if I am having fun, then why can't I take all day on my beloved route, there is no such things as taking too long.
I suppose we shouldn't care how some one gets to the chains as long as they aren't hogging the route when others want on it or getting hurt. It also seems that the evolution of sport has seriously eroded ethics hammered out by Robbins,Frost and other greats.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
pigsteak wrote:tradmike hasn't seen me stick clip a route....I bet you a dollar I can get stick clip a route faster than you can climb it....
Yes stick clipping up a route can be faster than climbing it. It's the working of the route on toprope that takes so long. The last time I stick clipped up a route over my head, I was on it a good portion of the day. Kind of sucks if someone is wanting to get on it. Maybe I'm too considerate. I'm only advocating not hogging a popular route.
Work your way through the grades don't let the grades work you. It should be more of a right of passage. Not sitting in the fast lane doing 50 mph.
lol...true enough tradmike...I was just playing with you. my wife rolls her eyes when I ask for the stick clip from above. I just remind her I will leave her favorite draw up there as the alternative.
